I took the belt off the cam pulley and reset the cam and got those results. I have to go a bit further in to look some more
Since the engine is cold, and air will slip past cold pistons and rings more readily than in a warm engine, squirt oil (10W?) into the cylinders to seal the piston rings to cylinder walls. This way, any low compression, or fast leakdown, will definitely be from the valves.
You could turn the engine to check the valve lash on each cylinder with each one at TDC compression. Excessive valve stem clearance would indicate a bent valve.
There are a few different brands that make versions of that tool in case you can’t find that particular one. The one linked to by Tester is a Powerbuilt brand. OTC, SP Tools (Schley) and KD Tools also make versions of it. SIR Tools makes a more expensive OEM factory-like tool. The Powerbuilt/OTC/SP/KD version is versatile though and helps you to avoid obstructions. I have the OTC and SP versions myself as well as the SIR Tool.
hey knucklesandwich, if you didn’t want any help with your problem then why did you post it? aparently all your looking for is someone to argue with and yell at. you know what they say “before you open your mouth - open your mind”
Simply remove the cover to the flywheel, (2 12mm bolts, 2 10mm bolts) use a pry bar to stop rotation of the motor, probably need a friend, and remove the crank bolt with a breaker bar and socket.
Are you serious?
Go heckel someone else.
Really.
That worked in the old days when the crankshaft pulley bolt torque was, perhaps, 75 ft. lb. Have you tried that on a Honda which is torqued to 180 ft. lb., but, requires much more torque to break free?
Who has a torque wrench which goes to 300 - 500 ft. lb. and will check the torque required to break the Honda pulley bolt free? Anybody? Anybody?
Yes you can. Start with the crank at one of the 90 degree positions and rotate the cams as needed to seal each cylinder as it is pressurized. This is with the belts off of course, you will have to retime the engine anyway.
I’m surprised that no one has suggested the rope trick. that is where you take out a spark plug, coil a rope through the spark plug hole until you fill the cylinder. The turn the engine until the rope compresses and locks the engine. You want to be sure an be on the compression stroke.
I personally have never done this myself, I’ve always found a better way, except on the Honda (97 Accord LX). That one I sent to the dealer.
One more thing, when you put on the new head and are ready to install the timing and balance shaft belts, post back and I 'll tell you how to time the balance shafts, they are a bit tricky. A lot of people, mechanics too don’t seem to be able to get those right.
I must close out this post, it contained alot of things that were silly some that I regret but I think it’s important to let any one interested know how it turned out. The car “jumped time”, how ever you want to describe it, this is my meaning…it was that one or more of the teeth on the belt broke away and the timing changed while the belt appeared to be ok. The tool that tester talked about here :Or! If you don’t want to spend the money on the impact gun, they also sell this tool. Even has a video!
http://www…_tips.html
Tester
Is EXACTLY what I needed. I did purchase a new head for $250 from ebay, installed it, put on the timing and balance belt, adjusted the valves and the engine cranked and ran perfectly on the first crank.
So, in closing I have learned a bit about how to post in a politacally correct manner, that the tool tester mentioned is VITAL and changing the head on a Honda Accord is not that bad.