I’ve had a habit for many years, that when starting an engine that’s been sitting for a very long time, I’ll pull the spark plugs, put a couple ounces of fresh oil into each cylinder, and let them sit that way overnight. Then i drain the crankcase, fill it with fresh oil, and then pull out the distributor, and spin the oil pump with a tool i made for my drill, until i get oil up to the cam bearings. How can i accomplish pressurizing the oil system in an engine without a distributor in the unlikely event i ever have to?
pulling the ign and fuel pump fuse is not enough? how much damage do you think is caused by cranking a motor that has sat for awhile? there is no load on the motor. what carb’d motor with no distributor are you thinking of buying? crank motor till oil light goes off
one of my collector cars has been sitting for years. i want to get oil to the cam bearings before i turn the cam
on my diesels, to prime the oil and fuel system, we pull the crankshaft position sensor plug. This cranks the engine, but it won’t fire (or even try to,) until we are ready for it to do so.
@old_mopar_guy wants to get oil pressure without turning over the engine on cars without an oil pump driven by the distributor. I got nuttin’.
Interesting, I have not even thought of that, Guess I would fear the residual oil is going to cause a rough start, Motorcycle with frozen engine used pb blaster, (my daughters) but fogging oil for my 86 outboard has worked fine for years applied before storage. Fogging oil probably works fine for cars also. The key my boat guy old me is to fog it while cranking as then the oil gets distributed rather than just sitting on the top of the cylinder, 2 cycle engine.
racers do use a residual oil pressure cyl that stores a small amount of oil under pressure. almost like a surge tank. you manually open valve when motor is running to fill it. and close valve before you shut off motor. than open valve prior to starting car. if this hot rod motor has an oil port than you could somehow pump oil into motor. maybe a museum with 40+ million$ cars might have a mobile oil pumping setup. but you need at least 1 port into the oil system. if car had an external oil cooler adapter fitting on the oil filter you might be able to use those ports?
ah, so the question then becomes, what drives the oil pump on cars without distributors?
well, my 01 taurus had a dizzy block off plate on the rear of block that might have been a hold over from the distributor days? but i think the oil pump is driven by the cam and is in the front of the block? i dont know where the oil pump is
I think I liked it a lot better when virtually every car had a camshaft down low in the block that drove the distributor (and fuel pump) and the distributor shaft drove the oil pump. Much simpler.
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We used to have a local Auto Talk radio show with Paul Brandt as the host. He was a former race car driver. He commented that they would do an over haul on a race engine and run it around the track a few times and then pull the bearings. The wear from start up would be quite evident compared to just running the engine after warm up. At any rate he said they would just use a drill to run the pump or pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the starter to build oil pressure. Personally, I dunno, engines are tough and I don’t think I’d ever go beyond that unless the car had been sitting for a number of years.
I doubt that any of today’s electronics laden cars will become collectible, and I doubt even more that I will live long enough to have to bring one out of a deep slumber.
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Sure they will. I certainly said that about most 1970s and 1980s cars, but some are collectible now. I mean US spec cars, not something from overseas without the smog gear that made 70s and 80s cars so slow.
Would a pre-luber do what you want?
It would. I could make a fitting to install in place of the oil pressure sending unit, and attach the pre-luber to it. Thanks!
The oil pump on my 3 distributor-less cars are mounted directly on the crankshaft snout.
I think these coil on plug ignition systems were a solution in search of a problem.
A distributor is a mechanical device that requires maintenance. Coil on plug requires no maintenance, no plug wires, nothing. Direct to the plug makes for a stronger spark and with some electronics can read mis fires. I think that is progress.
And having multiple coils to eventually replace instead of just one
True, but I didn’t replace 5 or more dizzy caps and a set of wires in that time or an O-ring on the base. My truck has 140K on the original coils (and 60K on the wires - it is a Chevy LS with remote coils) and 72K on the Mustang’s original coils. 33K on the Audi’s but it is too young to be an issue. I did have to replace the entire coil cassette on our departed Saab at about 105K. That was a pricey event at $300 for all 4 coils and the electronics.