I have a 2001 v70, did the same thing. Battery is not sending enough juice to the starter and plugs, and anything else you have running. Test your battery and your alternator and the connections. Mine always started easier when I parked 1/2 on the lawn. This will also fix issues with the intermittant
wipers not staying on.
I’m betting on a leaky fuel pressure regulator.
hey guys,
Trouble starting and cranks:
My family pretty much only drives Volvos and I worked at a volvo dealer for 4 years and have become incredibly familiar with these cars. My initial thought was the coil. I believe by 99 Volvo had gone to one coil whereas before they had one coil per cylinder. I’d check the connection to the coil pack for corrosion. I had an S70 that was doing the same thing, starting was always hit or miss and starting after the car had been running was always more likely. My thought is that your coil is on the way out. A new one installed should be less than 200. Be sure to get genuine volvo parts, these cars often run into trouble with aftermarket electrical components.
For those who’s dont crank:
I would suggest she try holding down the override shift button next to the shifter. If that doesn’t work check the button on the shift knob that allows you to put the car in gear. Sometimes they get sticky and don’t pop all the way back out. Lastly often the ignition switch goes in these cars and they can become finicky. We have a S70 (same as v70 just a sedan instead of a wagon) that has the same issue, holding down the override switch or pulling out the button on the shifter usually works. Thanks!
the weight of her key chain. “The problem is pressure” It’s in the contact of the key in the key slot. WEIGHT of keys.
This call made me excited until they weren’t sure what the issue was 
I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra that has the same issue but I have a bit more detail on when it does and doesn’t start as we have been living with it for a year or so without any negative affects.
If we park on the upslope of our driveway our Nissan will turn over but not start on the first attempt. The second attempt it always starts (we do not need to remove the key and I assume Anna wouldn’t have to either). In the winter we parked on this slope and it wouldn’t start at all, I put it in Neutral, let it coast to the flat part of the driveway, it sat for an hour, and then it started fine (this is the only time it didn’t actually start on the second attempt). In the summer we don’t have the issue as much, so the colder it is the harder it is to start. A friend of mine that does some of his car repairs recommended that I step on the gas a few times before starting the car and it should start on the first attempt, this actually does help, although I forget to do it most of the time and since it always starts the second time I’m not to worried. I have brought it to a few different car shops and no one really is sure what is going on, and since it doesn’t seem to hurt the car at all, I haven’t wanted to spend money to fix something when no one is sure what the problem is.
While this issue isn’t exactly identical to Anna’s it sounds like the same type of issue, her’s is just more pronounced in the sense she needs to park on a down slope. Maybe this info will help someone with this?
I should add, we also have no issues starting the car if we had recently parked it (same as Anna). For example if we go to the grocery store and come out we can start it on the first attempt.
Hey Everyone. I’m pretty sure I have a solution to the issue, as well as ethanlowry’s issue. I believe the fuel is draining back into the fuel tank once the engine is shut off. The fuel system should stay pressurized and fuel should stay in the fuel line when the car is off. There should be a one-way valve somewhere near the fuel pump that prevents the fuel from draining back into the tank.
If the valve is bad, and fuel drains back into the tank, it will take a couple cycles of the key to re-pressurize the fuel system. Also, if you park on a slope, the fuel will not drain back into the tank, so the fuel pump does not have to refill the entire fuel line.
If you listen to the fuel pump, you can hear when it pressurizes the line, as the fuel pump sound will change. Cycle the key and listen for the fuel pump, as it primes for about 5 seconds. Once it’s done priming, shut the key off, and then back on to start the prime again. After a few times of doing this, you should hear the fuel pump note change, this means pressure is now there. The car should start normally.
You can also have the fuel pressure checked. Once you shut the car off, the fuel system should remained pressurized for some time. If it de-pressurizes almost immediately, it’s probably a bad valve somewhere in the fuel system, or a bad fuel pump.