Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I’ve read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I’m not convinced.
Background:
I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn’t turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I’m thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
If the car is cranking ok, at the same cranking speed as before, then it is unlikely there is a battery connection problem that is causing the cold starting problem. The cranking operation requires much more current than the current needed to keep the engine running does. So if it cranks ok, that’s proof there’s plenty of current available for everything else.
How up to date are you with maintenance, such as new spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor etc. Not sure what motor your Mustang has but voltage and current isn’t the problem if the starting motor is cranking the car properly.
Old plugs and ignition parts can make cold starting more difficult. Fuel injection issues can make for hard starting, in particular if the cold start circuit isn’t feeding enough gas. This is the same as starting a cold engine without using the choke. Finally you might need a compression check. If the rings are old and tired it might take some cranking to get them to seal enough to provide the compression needed to get the motor to fire up.
The IAC can’t be adusted. From your post I gather that the engine is being physically cranked over fine by the starter motor but the engine simply won’t start up, cough, etc. until X number of revolutions.
Without knowing if there are any codes present, I might take a stab at this being caused by loss of residual fuel pressure while the vehicle is not in use.
This might point to a fuel sensor problem or to a lesser extent; a leaking injector or fuel pressure regulator.
The delay in starting, if caused by the above, is due to no gasoline in the fuel injector rail and it takes a few seconds for the gasoline from the pump to burp the air out of it.
I’m with OK on this one and would like to add that one way to check for losing residual fuel pressure is to turn the key to “on” without going to the start position for a few seconds, then back off for a few seconds. Repeat a few times and then try to start it. If you now just have to crank it for a normal period of time to get it to start, the problem is fuel. if it’s cranking normally it’s obviously not the battery. IAC not adjustable.
Thanks for the help. I had previously tried going to the “on” position for a few seconds and waiting to start but this time, backing off and repeating, that did the trick. Car started first time after not being driven at all yesterday. Now I’m not sure if I should bring it back to the same place or if I should bring it somewhere else if they incorrectly diagnosed it the first time.
The battery is sulfating excessively, signalling you it’s near the end of it’s life cycle. Replace the battery and the battery cables. “In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I’m thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.” Purchase new cables and an OPTIMA red top battery and you will be a-ok.