I was on here a few weeks with a no start no turn over problem with turned out to be the starter was bad. I got a replacement and been only 1 week and I believe the starter just got cooked again. It is a new battery and the backup battery started it last week. I put the backup battery and only clicking. I have not pulled the starter off yet but I am pretty sure that is the problem.
So what causes a starter to get fried like this? It is under warranty but need to fix this problem. One thing that was the same both times was it was cold. The first time around 0 last nite single digits. Could cold weather along with something else cause this to the starter?
It was never turned over for a long period of time. Always started in a second or two. The usual time. The cables does look very good both the positive and the negative. It started good until this morning. I parked it last nite and this morning deja vu. Ive been having problems with starting pretty much every time it gets extremely cold. I had a similar situation around Xmas, then a few weeks ago, now today. Every time it was single digits or less. Other years never had a problem with cold weather starting.
For the thread just a few weeks ago? No I may have suggested if it was a problem but that was not it.
But I just removed the plastic cover and tried to jump the starter. Just clicks. Tapped with a hammer, still just clicks.
Getting a ride to my other car. He has a code tester and also will be testing voltage again at starter. But not doing much more till at least monday when it gets above 20.
With the old starter was at 11.7-11.75. Have not tested yet. I do not have barely any tools at my apt. There all at my farm where i do 99% of the work on everything. Once I get to the farm I will bring my tools in my other car. Changing the starter is simple enough to do in the parking lot. Second time around is always easier and twice as fast. My buddy is bringing one today and will test it in a bit. I will let you know later today.
What viscosity oil are you using? If you are using 30 weight or higher, the engine is harder to crank at 0 degrees or below.
If you are using multi-, viscosity oil, you should be o.k. My 1971 Ford Maverick with 10W-40 oil in the crankcase sat out when the temperature was -20 F (20 below zero). It turned over slowly, but started right up. Modern 0W-30 oil shouldn’t pose a problem.
I had a colleague back in the early 1970s who purchased a new Pontiac. He had trouble starting the car at zero degrees. He found that the dealer that serviced his Pontiac didn’t believe in multi-viscosity oil and put 30.weight in the crankcase.
As mentioned above, the key diagnostic is to measure the voltage at the starter terminals with key in “start”. Probe between starter terminal and starter case, that will test the wiring from starter case to battery negative too. If you find it awkward making that voltage measurement while laying on your back under the starter, you can make some extension cables with alligator clips to attach to the starters test points. When I do that test I use extension cables. I’m able to view the voltages while sitting in the driver’s seat.
One note, a weakly charged battery may still crank the engine, but more current than usual will flow through its windings. That extra current could damage an otherwise good starter motor; best bet for long starter life is to only crank engine when you have a fully charged, known to be good battery.
Starter not part of emissions system, so a diagnostic P-code for starter unlikely.
I’m surprised your code reader didn’t complain, saying it couldn’t connect to vehicle OBD II system. Maybe there’s battery back up power that remains for OBD II queries, even if car battery disconnected.
Very true, but it is known after the first slow cranking attempt. If the driver has to get somewhere in a hurry, no choice but to keep trying. But if they have nowhere important to go, might want to get the low battery charge problem resolved before continuing cranking attempts.
If you mean you measured 9 volts at starter terminal connected to small wire, between terminal and starter case, with key in “start”, that’s too low. Rather than removing starter and taking it for bench testing, , suggest to use that time to figure out why there’s only 9 volts. There has to be something or things in the circuit causing the voltage to drop from 12.5 to 9. My Corolla needs about 15 amps in that circuit to activate the starter. A resistance of only 1/4 ohm between battery and starter would drop voltage by 3.75 volts. 12.5 - 3.75 = 8.75 volts.
Be sure to use the oil viscosity specified in the owner’s manual. Straight weight oil of 20 or 30 viscosity is not suitable for zero degree temperatures.
