Unless the system has been open or the fluid got low, MC bleed is not needed.
After I make sure the pins and pads aren’t binding, I was thinking that if the master cyl. has gotten sticky from dirt in there maybe just bleeding it by loosening the brake lines might clean it out enough to get it working for now, then get back to it when I get the Camry running. I really need to soak and tap on the bleed screws for days in a row before attempting to loosen another one. Daggone car was up in Chicago for 6 yrs, every nut, bolt and screw on it is probably rusted and frozen in place. Being down to one car is inconvenient for us, not to mention a little worrisome. My collar feels like it’s getting a bit tight… :0 I wouldn’t even have to lower the Corolla, I think I’d be able to tell after bleeding the MC if it feels like the rotors are moving more freely.
Might work or not, but someone I know says he heats the bleeder screws with a propane torch to break the rust bond, and then loosens them with the wrench after they have cooled back down. I recon it’s important not to overdo the heat though.
My experience was a bit different, but I had a car with dragging brakes after I replaced the master cylinder. When I replaced it with a second one the problem went away.
Sure bleed away. That parts car is likely corroded. Rebuild kits are very cheap and it is pretty easy to do… except getting that broken bleed screw out. Drill it out. Start small and work your way up. Don’t drill too deep. It might just relax the part enough for an easy-out to remove it. Otherwise a bleed repair kit is needed, too.
If you can afford to, id replace the calipers and rubber hoses. (if bleeding and greasing the slide pins doesnt work.) Dont play around with brakes, they need to be right, period.