I have a 96 Dodge Neon, SOHC, automatic. The car has been a problem car from day one, but my most recent issue is with stalling, something I’ve never experienced before.
At very low speeds, such as when idling/coasting on an off-ramp from the highway or when getting in/out of a parking space, the car putt, putt, putts and dies. At higher speeds when your foot is on the gas, the car runs fine.
I took it to my mechanic and he couldn’t make the car act up. I picked it up, drove down the road and stalled out. He picked me back up and we got it to his shop, and they cleaned out the throttle body. The car didn’t start right away, but after giving it a little gas, it worked fine.
I took the car home and drove it around, and everything seemed to be going great. I went back to class (I’m a college student), and I returned tonight to further test the car. I drove around my apartment’s parking lot for about 15 minutes, idling as often as possible, and just as I was about to give up and say “it’s fixed,” I pulled into a parking space, then pulled back out in reverse, only to stall.
I appreciate anyone’s advice on this. My mechanic didn’t seem to believe that it could be the fuel filter, but I’m wondering if I have a bad fuel pump. One of my roommates suggested it was the clutch or fly wheel, but that seems unlikely (with my limited knowledge of cars).
Thank you.
It could very likely be your idle air control valve, it may need to be cleaned or replaced.
What happens after it stalls out? Does it start right back up? Or do you have to wait a while? Of does it start, but with difficulty?
Also say something about maintenance. When is the last time it got new plugs? Wires? Air/fuel filter? Do you know what your mechanic has tested? Results?
Is the check engine light on?
Stop by an auto parts store. Buy a spark tester and a can of starter fluid. If the car stalls out and won’t start up first use the spark tester (read instructions). If you have spark, spray some starter fluid into the intake and see if it starts. Then your mechanic knows whether to look at the ignition system or the fuel system.
What happens after it stalls out? Does it start right back up? Or do you have to wait a while? Of does it start, but with difficulty?
Depends. This last time it re-started right up, but in past instances it hasn’t restarted to idle. It would restart if the gas was held down, though.
Also say something about maintenance. When is the last time it got new plugs? Wires? Air/fuel filter? Do you know what your mechanic has tested? Results?
I replaced the plugs/wires a couple years ago. Air filter is reasonably old (years). And I’ve never replaced the fuel filter (had it since Jan. 04). Not sure what he’s really tested.
Is the check engine light on?
No check engine light. When it stalls, the oil dipper on the dash lights up.
Stop by an auto parts store. Buy a spark tester and a can of starter fluid. If the car stalls out and won’t start up first use the spark tester (read instructions). If you have spark, spray some starter fluid into the intake and see if it starts. Then your mechanic knows whether to look at the ignition system or the fuel system.
Will try this tomorrow.
I 93.7% promise you that it is your idle air control valve or some other vacuum related issue. Have your mechanic start there. You already know you have spark and fuel and air, because it runs, so skip that mess. The other 6.3% of my guess is that you simply need a tune up, including plugs, wires air filter etc.
“You already know you have spark and fuel and air, because it runs, so skip that mess.”
Ok - if you really had no problem with spark, fuel, or air, then your car wouldn’t stall - it would keep running. I haven’t a clue what Xebadaih means because what s/he has said is that s/he thinks your problem is air - until now in which case you apparently have no problem with spark fuel or air?
Here is what I say - you very well might have an IAC problem. This is easy to clean and you should inspect the wiring. I would not simply toss a new one on unless it is properly diagnosed because throwing parts at a problem is expensive and normally ineffective.
Here is another thing that I say - you DO need a new air filter, a new fuel filter, new spark plugs and wires.
(Why is all of this showing up in italics? I know how to do that but I didn’t)
I took it back today and the mechanic replaced the Idle Air Control Valve (to the tune of $156, $90 for the part).
Everything seems to work OK now. He said he checked my fuel filter and didn’t think it was worth replacing. I’ll probably go get new plugs, wires and an air filter soon though.
You can’t check a fuel filter. He probably checked your fuel pressure, since a serious fuel filter problem would show itself in low pressure. Fuel filters are really cheap though. It should just be replaced according to the intervals given in the owner’s manual.
As for the air filter - there is no reason to wait. They are cheap and you can put it in yourself in anywhere from 30 seconds to 5 minutes at the most.
Since money is an object, replacing your own plugs & wires is also incredible easy on these little 4 cylinder cars. There’s no real reason to wait on that either.
I’m only saying all of that b/c you said the car has been a problem from day 1. The best way to avoid problems (though you can’t avoid them all) is to keep up with recommended maintenance.
i had the same problem it was my wires and spark plugs that ust need changing i was only running off 3 of them so i kept stalling out 2 trying changing those its cheap! and sure do the job