95 ford escort lx 1.9

ford
escort

#1

the car sounds real rough when you drive it. the car acts like it has a blow out but no flat. the car is shaking real bad and has smoke come out when you rev it up changed plugs and wiers and tps and need help


#2

“the car acts like it has a blow out but no flat”

I’m not coming up with any clear idea of what that means.

What color is the smoke? My guess is white and that you have a blown head gasket. Check your coolant level and look for signs of water in the oil (oil looking like a milkshake). If you have a compression gauge or vacuum gauge, use it.

If the smoke is more like blue/gray/black, what does it smell like? If it smells like fuel (rather than sweet like coolant) then you might just be running really rich. That would be much less of a problem and I’d first suggest checking out the coolant temperature sensor.

If it turns out to be a head gasket, and you plan to fix it, first do an internet search on Ford Escorts & Focuses (Foci?) dropping valve seats. If that head gets pulled, put it back on completely reworked with the new improved valve seats.


#3

The smoke is blue and smells like gas. When I mean the car acts like you have a flat tire meaning, thats how rough it is riding. The fuel pump and fuel filter are fairly new. The check engine light is not on.


#4

The rough riding may be something else entirely like suspension problems - or it is from misfiring. Can you tell?

In this case, it sounds like you’re running too rich or just have really poor ignition. There are so many reasons that can happen that it might be most straightforward to have it put on a scanner to get into the PCM’s data stream.

If you’re going to tinker with it yourself, avoid replacing parts on guesses since you’ll quickly spend more time & money than you you’d had someone put it on a scanner.

Have a look at the spark you’re getting. It should be strong, bright & blue. The coil packs in those cars are prone to failure. You can do a basic check on it by measuring resistances between the towers. I think Autozone’s online repair manuals provide the specs. Some auto parts stores can test things like that and do it for free.

I would check the fuel pressure (you’d be looking for pressure too high). When doing that you should be able to see whether the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is doing its job, but pull the vacuum hose for the FPR and look for liquid gasoline. If you find gas in that vacuum line, replace the regulator.

Check the coolant temp sensor. This is fairly easy with a multimeter - you can probably get the resistance specs from Autozone’s online repair info.

Check and clean your mass airflow sensor (MAF). Use only MAF cleaner on it. While you’re at it make sure the air filter is clean and there are no airflow restrictions. If you have a K&N filter, clean the MAF and put a stock filter back on for a while.

Do everything you can to check for vacuum leaks. (Though it might seem this would lean things out, it has the opposite effect if the computer is trying to compensate for it). The best way is a smoke test. A vacuum gauge is very helpful. If you don’t want to go for a smoke test, you can rig a hose to a propane torch and run propane around all of the vacuum connections and the intake/intake manifold.

Bad O2 sensor readings can mangle the mix. Its an expensive guess though. The best way to test them is to have a shop scope them, but you can at least check the wiring for them. You should probably also check for exhaust leaks.

You can pull the fuel rail and check out the spray patterns on the injectors and look for leakdown.

Are you sure that the bulb for the check engine light isn’t burned out?


#5

the check engine light is good it comes on when we unplug the tps