Right…it wasn’t starting easy in the cold. It spins good but not much fire. But it always started if I just held the starter…it would start to fire and eventually run. Now today it did it warm. I think I had to push on the accelerator to keep it running. If I just turn the key it fires up momentarily…then dies.
Runs fine after all the fandangling.
454
Auto
170000 miles
Fuel filter?
Try some heet or similar, first guess.
It has 3 bottles of heat in 42 gallon tank
@badbearing You are asking about what fuel to use, additives and basically avoiding the real solution. Just have a competent mechanic look at this thing and get it fixed right.
I was asking simple questions out of curiosity. There WAS nothing wrong with the truck. Now there is.
I believe myself to be a competent mechanic 
A competent mechanic would know that a fuel filter that allows the car to run fine will pass enough fuel to not hinder starting.
By the way, I am just an experienced DIY, that does not make me a competent mechanic. A competent mechanic does not need help diagnosing something like this. He just goes through the proper steps to diagnose it.
I have changed engines, transmissions, differentials, replaced head gaskets, kingpins ( haven’t done that lately ), ball joints tie rod ends, steering racks and just about anything else that bolts onto a car. That still doesn’t make me a competent mechanic.
Sure sounds fuel related, If you turn the key on without starting can you hear the fuel pump? if you leave the key in the on position 10 seconds before trying to start does that change things?
10 seconds might.
When I turn the key to ON position the dash light Do Not come on. This just changes at -20 degrees. I push the key just a little forward and the dash lights come on
I don’t believe you are a competent mechanic. .But I am
Sounds like your keyed ignition circuit might be failing, not providing power to all circuits. I am not sure how it is all wired together but I think “When I turn the key to ON position the dash light Do Not come on. This just changes at -20 degrees. I push the key just a little forward and the dash lights come on” could be a clue the ignition switch might be failing.
That is the type of response which is not warranted, and which may get you banned from this site. The older guys–like me–who frequent this site are not fond of that type of communication.
It’s not a simple tumbler replacement?
If I get banned I get banned. You said the same thing to me. Only in different words
I would think the contacts within the switch rather than the tumblers would be the issue. ps I collect fu dogs, aka foo dogs, or temple lions, male has his foot on the world, female has her foot on a baby.
I got a truck I’ll sell ya
It sounds like its running a little lean on cold starts, or the spark isn’t robust enough. Suggest to check for vacuum leaks, visually check the spark quality at a spark plug, and check the fuel rail pressure. Fuel trims too, if you have the necessary equipment.
Good for now, thanks, Ya know I remember a 92 truck at work, nobody could figure out hard to start and poor running until warm, took it to the dealer and it ended up being clogged fuel injectors, So many options!
It’s always had a random misfire at idle. .so I’m thinking your on to something there … maybe. Thank you
I like this truck. It’s clean yet inside and out. Maybe I just take the thing in and pay a giant bill. Thanks
It could be a lot of things, could be a sensor, IAC valve, coolant temp sensor, etc. I’ve had several of those throttle body injected trucks, but they were 350 engines. They are OBD 1, and my first step would be retrieving the codes if there’s a check engine light. Very easy to do on GM OBD 1 system by using a paperclip to jump 2 terminals on the diagnostic port under the dash. Google “Retrieving GM OBD 1 codes” if you haven’t retrieved the codes already or do not know how. Getting the codes, if there are any, might give you some clue where to go from there.
