I’m no professional mechanic, and it seems like I’ve run myself into a dead end here. I have a '94 Accord, EX model with manual transmission that won’t stay running. It will start up, and run for about half a second before shutting off. The shut off is fast, like spark, not like it’s losing fuel pressure. I also hot wired the fuel pump to diagnose and make sure it was receiving fuel-- it is, and that’s not the problem. I have replaced the main fuel pump relay under the steering column, checked every fuse, and replaced the ignition control module in the distributor. I have even tried starting it with a different battery.
The car used to do this once or twice before finally starting and running when the car was cold. It seemed to slowly get worse over time, but if the car was warm it never seemed to do it. Now the car will not start despite how warm it is outside, and the same problem always occurs and it dies after a half second.
Any help would be appreciated!
Does it die after a half a second or as soon as you release the key from the start position?
The ballast resistor may be bad.
When cranking the engine over, full battery voltage is allowed to the ignition coil.
Once the engine starts, the voltage is then passed thru the ballast resistor to drop the voltage to the coil to prevent burning out secondary ignition components.
Tester
Is it possible that a malfunction in the car’s security system is causing it to shut down?
It dies a half second or so after I release the key. If I keep the key cranking, the car will run for a half second, then just continue cranking and not fire at all again until I release the key and attempt starting again.
I don’t think so. I would imagine it wouldn’t start at all. And it does run, but only rarely.
Does that have the same function as the ignition control module? It sounds like you are describing the same thing, or at least the component with the same function. I already replaced the ignition control module with no change.
The ignition module controls when the spark occurs.
The ballast resistors controls the amount of voltage the coil gets once the engine starts.
Without the resistor, the secondary ignition components could fry because of too much voltage once the charging system comes on line once the engine starts.
So, the engine will start, but won’t run because the bad resistor isn’t allowing any voltage to the coil.
Tester
Possible ignition switch… Honda’s have also had issues with bad Distributors and main ignition relays… I think you may have replaced them but did you use AZ parts??
Do you have an internal coil (Hitachi dist) or external coil (TEC dist)?? Also what engine size?? I take it is a VTEC being a EX model??
Honda was still using those ancient artifacts into the 90’s?
At least I got my “learn something new each day” moment over with early. Now I’m done learning for the day 
That was more of a Mopar thing after getting rid of the points and condenser time… I can’t find any information about fuel injected Hondas having Ballast resistors…
From what the OP is describing it does sound like a ballast going bad, But I have checked voltage at the coils on Hondas and it was B+ not reduced… I even just got through helping a friend bring back a 84 carbed Civic that was not running and I don’t remember seeing a ballast… Not saying they do or do not have one, I just don’t remember…
Can you read trouble codes on this thing? Either with a Honda scan tool or flash codes? That’s just generic information I know nothing about Hondas.