So the problem began with the car not wanting to start up. It would usually get going by the second try but after about a week, my '93 Honda Accord would kind of sputter for a second then die except now the check engine light would come on and I would hear this clicking noise from behind the dash. At this point I would turn the car off, remove the key and try again with the result being either: the engine turns over, the same clicking noise happens, or I end up grinding the starter for 10/15 sec.
More recently the problem has extended to while the car is moving. In the past week the engine will suddenly cut out. I could be backing out of my driveway, taking a turn at 5 mph or driving on the highway, and it will suddenly cut out. Sometimes the engine death is preceded by a drop in rpm, and sometime if i can push in the clutch fast enough the car doesn’t die. Beyond that I have no clue.
I recently replaced the master relay and the ignition switch. I also had a new timing belt put in by a mechanic only 5k miles ago. At that time he said that it should last me another 50k miles no problem. It’s a '93 Honda Accord LX, 4-cylinder manual transmission.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I can’t really afford another mechanic visit right now. One friend thought it might be the alternator, and another scoffed at the notion. I know just enough to follow directions and fix what needs to be fixed, but I’m no good at diagnosing car problems.
That relay chattering could be the fuel pump relay but it chattering is likely an effect, not a cause. It may be losing electrical power occasionally. Did you replace the main relay in an effort to fix this problem? If not, are you sure that thing is not the cause of your problem?
I’d check the cables from the battery to the frame and fuseboxes.
We were just talking about this today. The main relay has bad/cracked solder joints. Take the cover off and solder all the connection or buy a new one.
There’s insufficient detail here to determine whether you’r losing spark or fuel, but you are losing one of them.
Perhaps the cheapest and easiest place to start would be by getting a fuel line pressure check kit (and a Haynes manuual) and checking fuel pressure. If that checls out, you can proceed to look at the ignitiuon system.
By the way, when was the last time the ignition components were replaced, the engine “tuned up”? Yours is a distributor-based system, which means you have a distributor rotor, cap, and spark plug wires, lal of which should have been changed eons ago and all of which could cause your problems. You also have an igniter (in the distributor) and a coil(pack). If my memory serves, your coil may be in your distributor.
Other possibilities include a near dead battery and/ot corroded battery cable connections. Have you checked these things out? Parts stores will check your battery and charging systems often for free.
You have a ways to go with the basic stuff before throwing components at it.
Post back and let us know how you make out. We care.
I have replaced the master relay recently, she has a new ignition switch as well. As for the distributor cap and spark plugs those are all new as well, replaced along with the timing belt and master brake cylinder about 5k miles ago. The battery is also new replaced that about 2 months ago. I’ll go and get myself a fuel line pressure check kit today as soon as I’m off of work.
I really appreciate the responses all and sorry I didn’t get back to you until now. I thought I would get an e-mail if there was a post on my question but it appears that’s not the case.
check fuel pressure ! bad pump or fuel pressure regulator. Injected or carbureted??? Get a Manual and see what electrical components are involved.
If problem is gone what was the fix?
cubpilot
Hey mate, I’ve been having a few issues with my 94 Honda Accord. Check out this short video on common issues I tried and less common that eventually fixed it. My car was stopping randomly with the check engine light coming on.