When turning the key, do you have power at the small wire on the fender mounted starter solenoid? I think it is a red wire with a white stripe? (could be switched- red strip on white.)
I have seen a number of these wires get broken over the years. This wire powers the solenoid. Without power there, the 12v won’t pass through the solenoid and you’ll get a no crank.
yep, that is the one.
Couple of things form that pic:
-That fender mounted starter solenoid does not look new.
-That battery does not look not hooked up. is it a side terminal battery?
-That white stuff all over the fender makes me wanna go back inside and wait for the thaw! 
That was the old one. I took that photo to make sure I hooked up the new one the right way.
I disconnected the battery so I didn’t shock myself.
Also, how would i test that?
Multimeter with black wire to it and red wire to the red cables?
sort of.
Run the ground off the multimeter to an engine or battery ground.
pull that wire off, and run the positive side into the wire, and have someone crank the key. Engine won’t try to start because this wire is off, but if it is working properly, then you should have 12v there when the key is cranking.
if you do, hook it back up, and then with key not cranking, check the two big terminals on the starter solenoid. One should have 12v, one will not.
The side that does not have 12v, should get 12V when the key is turned.
You can’t shock yourself with 12 VDC, your skin impedance is too high. You can grab both terminals directly with no consequence. You disconnect the battery to avoid shorting it out when wrenching on those solenoid terminals. That will be a spark show and perhaps an exploded battery so keep doing what you’re doing but not for the stated reason…
Hate to disagree but personal experience says otherwise about getting shocked 
Due to the last lines of work I have had, I either have massive callouses or barely any skin at all. Right point and I know it…
And if I don’t get ~12v, then I have found the issue.
depends on which part you don’t get 12V.
The little wire, when it gets 12v, activates the solenoid which lets 12v pass through it (on the big wires/studs,) and straight on to the starter.
if the little wire gets 12v, but 12V doesn’t pass through the solenoid on the big wires/studs- then the solenoid is bad.
If you don’t get 12v at the little wire, then something between that end and the ign switch is bad. on Fords of that vintage, I have found that wire broken under the steering column. I have also found neutral safety switches bad.
but testing that solenoid- especially since Ford put it up where it is easy access- is, well… easy. lol.
So I think i missed a step here, am i testing the wire while its connected then?
This vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission.
Manual transmission vehicles don’t have a park/neutral safety switches.They have clutch pedal inter-lock switches.
Tester
[quote=“Hobby_welder, post:19, topic:135888”]
Any idea which one it is?
I don’t see anything there on the LMC list that will bypass the clutch safety switch for testing purposes. Suggest you verify there’s an actual problem with the clutch safety switch before attempting to bypass it in any event. Report the results of the voltage test ideas above, then folks here will chime in w/ideas what to try next.
potato, potato.
It accomplishes the same thing, but you are correct.
no, disconnect it- and check the wire itself.
Here is the result from the safety switch:
11.37v when the key is turned.
Testing this by myself has not been fun.
I don’t know if ill be able to test the starter solenoid and cables as I have no assitant.
I will be pulling off the steering wheel and checking the ignition switch.
So… I reconnected the clutch safety switch and hooked up the multimeter as shown, and pushed the clutch in and turned the key. Truck started. Im dumbfounded. That little snap ring below came off as I mentioned earlier. In a comical fashion… im going to let the truck run and see if she starts again.
Started again. Im beginning to think that snap ring was keeping the switch from working properly.
