I looked a little closer and the part that they list on that link is the MAP sensor for my 03 Dakota.
Because that was the last vehicle that I looked up parts for…it showed my part.
Not an 88 Ford!!!
I went back to the Autozone site and changed to a Prism that was listed as one of my vehicles. I closed the page and clicked on @Rodknox, link again and it showed a MAP for a Prism.
It appears that if you have cars listed on Autozones site under “my cars”…clicking on Rodknox link will take you to the MAP sensor for the last car you came there to look up parts for…maybe last week!!!
cool I got a computer today it was off the same year only it wasn’t a conversion van, it was one number off matching but I think that would have to do with the AC which isn’t hooked up. Now it runs but wont idle for long. Tomorow its back to the junkyard and start with the iac and map sensor. And maybe some of the other possible problems. Plus install the brake booster.
Maybe my karma is getting better the only computer I could get today was also the cheepest. nice that and there was 4 ford vans for me to pick from. So if I fix it it will be cheap.
you can just clean the aic, probably. spray it with some carb cleaner, mine just had two screws holding it in. spray it in the hole it comes out of too
thanks I’ll try that before I head to the junkyard, I had a guy at auto zone said that cleaning the iac rarely works, because that was the first thing I heard to try. But nothing else has so why not , if I notice a difference that will at least narrow down the problem.
The leaking brake booster may be the whole cause of the engine not idleing.
I think a few others have also pointed this out in the past week. You know it’s leaking…why not replace it and eliminate the booster as being the problem. If changing it doesn’t work, you can go to the junk yard and buy all the crap you want!!!
It just doesn’t make sense that you already know where one problem is…fix it!!!
I hope that fixes it I know it if it runs again the brakes should at least work better. Only thing is the booster has leaked since I bought it, but that’s up next. One other note on the ford van’s the computer is right under the heater box , two screws one inside one on the firewall and it plops right off. took a lot longer to find it than replace it.
just an update, I replaced the power brake booster. It doesn’t go shhhhh anymore and the brakes work nice. I guess I’m getting somewhere, where I don’t really know. I did drive it to the gas station and home so that’s another nice.
I tried to clean the IAC , but to get to the dirty part I need a gasket which they don’t want to sell separate. seems I’ve made a gasket before out of phone book cover, tho I have old gaskets maybe cut one out of them.
today it idled rough and died until the engine got warm then it ran better hmm.So that’s a new rail fuel pump new regulator, another computer and a cap and rotor. If it makes it to the weekend it’s back to the junkyard.
Glad to hear that most of you problems are behind you.
Tell us though…is the idle still erratic, or did the booster smooth out the idle.
You can buy gasket material to cut your own. Any auto parts should have packages with an assortment of thin paper, thick paper, cork, rubber etc… or NAPA has it by the sheet.
it still idles erratically and dies , now though it seems to do it mostly when it was cold. Tomorrow I’m going to take it to work , see if it makes it. It’s a mess but not as bad, and hopefully some of the things I replaced would of eventually went bad or were due anyway. Thanks that makes sense on the gasket, on this one to really clean anything you have to take the iac body off the throttle body, At the 2 screws there was like a valve , I depressed the pin in it and sprayed in it but I don’t think it changed anything.
you have to clean inside the hole it came out of also. I just sprayed the crap out of everything and brushed or wiped it all with a shop rag. there were dark deposits on the plunger and in the hole it came out of. I removed all crud and had good results
Re the IAC, the shaft can get gunked up and fail to move. I have poured a 1 to 3 mixture of amonia and water into IAC valves and stirred it around, dumped and repeated several times often with good results. And more often than not the gasket was left on undamaged. This was just preventative maintenance on several models that tended to have problems with idle quality.
I’m going to try and grab an iac at the junkyard and clean it before I put it on. But I made it to work today, for awhile I was wondering if that was going to happen. So thank you all who posted Advice , This is or was a real stumper. I’ll post again after the weekend junkyard trip and give an update, but once again thank you all very much.
If your throttle position switch has two parts, one a variable resistor and the other a switch that detects throttle off and wide open throttle, check the switch side and make sure that the contacts are making when the gas pedal is not depressed and the contacts make for WOT.
If they aren’t making, it could be a bad switch or someone has adjusted the throttle stop screw to the point that the switch doesn’t make anymore. If this switch doesn’t make, the computer does not take over to control the idle. People think the IAC isn’t working, but it is simply not being commanded to work.
It is not an idle screw. That is where these systems get messed up often. It is a throttle stop screw and its purpose is to prevent the butterfly from damaging the throttle body when it closes suddenly. Sometimes a mechanic will “adjust” the idle using this and in the process will prevent the IPS (idle position switch, part of the TPS) from making.
Its location varies but it will be on the outside of the throttle body and usually limits the stop position of the bell crank. Because it is not meant to be adjusted, it can sometimes be hard to see and located in an awkward place for adjusting. The bell crank is where the throttle cable is attached. The throttle stop screw may be on the other side of the butterfly shaft instead though.