A water pump isn’t really a big deal . . . on most engines
I’m not necessarily saying to get that 2004 cargo van, but if the water pump is the only thing faulty at the moment
Plus, it’s a lot newer
A few years ago, I bought a car, knowing it had a bad water pump . . . bad bearing, actually . . . because the price was right and I could tell it had been well maintained
It turned out to be a pretty good choice
OK, I have a 1987 Ford van and it has a carb - and the symptom being described is exactly what happens when the choke is slightly out of tune. It is operated by a heater tied to the alternator, and heats up and cools at a different speed than the engine.
So may be this FI unit is doing something similar? Is there a heat related choke?
diagnostic link connector I guess is where the codes are read ? I’ll study up on that. to find it on the ford. I’ll try to jump the wire before I take off the gas line, it sounds easier.
yesterday I started tearing into the dash to find the vacuum line that runs the vacuum. Its kind if a mess in that someone has put an aftermarket radio in it,. there is a lot of open wires and connectors , what a mess. I did find a vacum line that was closed off, but my pops said it was probably factory. Other wise I have now looked twice for the vacum on the heater. concentrating mostly on the switch.
It is probably not a great thing if 88 was the first year to go throttle body, , they left me the bugs.
Not a great day to work on a ride here, 39 and raining but it will be worse next week so I’m going to do as much as I can on it. I’d feel a whole lot better if I can get it to run again, even that would be a nice thing.
I like the wild guesses and I totally appreciate that you all have been willing to help. If it wasn’t for the lost wages and no transportation I’d find this ride a real challenge.
As I understand this vehicle uses throttle body electronic fuel injection and an electric fuel pump. If the fuel pump function is in question on fuel injected engines, generally the first thing a mechanic would do is test the fuel pressure. Has that been done? It might be worth doing so, as if the fuel pressure is ok, replacing the fuel pump won’t help, so it would save you some time getting to the bottom of the problem maybe.
we Tested . mostly my uncle tested the fuel pump then guessed that it was the fuel pump . I was actually amazed it is a rail mounted fuel pump, no playing at all with the tanks, it is below the drivers door , sweet. Except the line broke , had to use high pressure fuel line hose but now it runs again. Still have same problems , but now that don’t seem so bad.
My uncle also ran the codes for me it READ PCM CAM FAULT CODE #15TH that was KOEO
KOER 44 thermac code 13 cant idle
KOEO-PCM ROM FAULT/CONTINUOUS = PCM KAM FAULT
inspect PCM and ECA
tomorow I am heading to the junkyard for a powerbrake booster and a computer if I can find it. My uncle said probably under the dash somewhere?
I would buy a new or rebuilt booster
How do you know the junkyard booster doesn’t also have a bad diaphragm?
You have 3 fuel pumps. The one on the frame rail is the high pressure pump. There is a low pressure feed pump in each tank to supply fuel to the high pressure pump.
You might check vacuum to the MAP sensor once you confirm adequate fuel pressure.
I thought about new its like a hundred dollars and has to be shipped. I called a junkyard with a 90 day warranty 50 bucks, if it works I can get one for maybe 20, pulling it myself plus a computer and if they are there a few other pieces.
I was lucky this time it was the rail pump , but both of the tanks worked before so I was thinking the main pump.
the tester tool said pcm or eca which rarely fails. if it goes right the computer is pretty close to the brake booster , which wont be in the way. We have some pretty decent boneyards here, I almost always bring a camera . One I’ve been going to almost as long as I have been driving.
If this computer doesn’t work or works different I’ll probably look remanufactured. if it is the problem.
The KAM(Keep Alive Memory) fault code might indicate a failure in the computer or it may only indicate that the computer has been unplugged or the battery cable has been disconnected. If fuel pressure is adequate I would strongly suggest that you ensure that vacuum to the MAP is good.
If the KAM error code is set by the computer you might open the computer and inspect pin #1 on the circuit board for a failed solder connection.
We didn’t disconnect the battery , and I didn’t know where the computer is( I think its on the drivers side under the dash but comes out through the front. My uncle said that as bad as the brake booster was leaking it would be real hard to find any other leaks. It did its problem while we had it hooked up. electrical things were clicking all over , so he figured electrical as My problem.
That it was the source of cant idle. I figure on just keep one thing at a timing on it. This is one weird van , sometimes I wonder if it has a grudge.
Look behind the kick panel on the passenger side. I believe you will find the computer there.
Use a Vice-Grip to pinch off the brake booster vacuum hose.
I have like a large heater box , under it is a metal box about the size of a small car stereo, is this the computer? I didn’t see a vacum line yet. I went to 3 junkyards today I managed to get the brake booster but the van it came off of was a 6 cylinder. At the junkyard we couldn’t find the computer anywhere on it. but we looked mostly on the drivers side. The computer looks like it is held on by one bolt on the firewall I could see. theres 2 stud bolts that might have to come out? I’m not sure what kind of wiring harness is there but it looks like it should come out through the inside of the van.
this computer might be the last thing I do to it, if I can get one tomorrow , I started it this morning and it ran and then wont run. I noticed like last time both the starter relay fuse and the coil were clicking .
The computer is the aluminum box on the passenger side behind the kick panel. I believe that 2 upper screws must be removed and then it pulls up and out but look around. It’s been a few years since I pulled one out. The MAP is attached under the cowl I believe. It has a vacuum hose and a 3 wire connector on it. Looks like this.
http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/engine-control-computer/blue-streak-engine-control-computer/ford/e150-1-2-ton-van/1988/8-cylinders-n-5-0l-fi/117729_220361_0_2424/ I’m guessing this is it? Do I have to replace the map sensor as well?
sorry to go on but at the junkyard they asked me if it was high altitude or California or a third choice, is there a way to find out which one I have?
The third choice was “48 states.”
KOER 44 thermac code 13 cant idle
Not 100% certain about the terminology, but on my 70’s Ford truck as I recall the thermactor system is the vacuum operated gadget that allows warm air (warmed by being passed through a port on the exhaust manifold) into the air filter housing to supply warm intake air to the engine, as long as the engine is cold. Then when the engine warms up that warm air pathway closes and cold air is supplied to the engine in the normal manner.
I’ve had that device fail twice in 40 years. Each time the diaphragm leaked. And the resulting vacuum leak made the engine idle poorly. Replacing it on both occasions fixed the idle problem straight away.
thanks not sure which part your saying is it on this page? http://www.autozone.com/parts/engine-management/ford/e150-1-2-ton-van/1988/8-cylinders-n-5-0l-fi
Click the link again that @Rodknox; listed. It only shows one MAP sensor when I clicked it.
Yosemite
I think I messed up my page at auto zone and it is showing parts for an 88 truck and a van . Not my best day .