HA HA HA HAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAA Take a gander at this guys. Ring any bells?
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=33851557I had to calm myself after looking at that link by thinking of my 1970 Chevelle with its ONE vacuum line.
Super complex and impossible to work on, they changed designs every 4 months trying to pass the new emissions regulations
I guess they all were having those problems back then…I had to rebuild the carb on my 84 GMC S-15…There were at least 30 different carb designs for vehicle with the 2.8L V6. Two different models - 2se and the E2se. Each model went through multiple changes. I bought the carb kit and it came with 2-3 times the number of gaskets I needed so it could accommodate all different design iterations the carb went through.
The E2SE was a nightmare. The mixture control rod had an O ring that seemed designed to split. The electronic Q-jets were a pain also. On any automobile of that period, once the system had been tampered with it was not economically possible to get it back in proper order. And the early 80s GMs would go to full rich if the CEL bulb failed.The shade tree mechanics often destroyed the carburetor attempting to lean it down when a bulb was all that was needed.
Luckily mine was the 2se. And it wasn’t too difficult to rebuild. I guess that’s one reason they all went to fuel injection.
Did you THINK of your 70 Chevelle or go out in the garage and stick your head under the hood? I gotta post that link again… Now that we have a new page. LOL… SWEET FANCY MOSES.
I was a child in the early 80’s but even then I knew that the quality of things was SUCKING BIG TIME…I mean it even trickled down to my toys. Why I was aware of this I am not sure…Also I would look at my toys which were all switching hard to plastics…even the wheels on my Radio Flyer went to all plastic and I was able to compare rather easily the difference in quality of the Radio Flyer of older kids with their wide metal bodies and steel wheels etc…the build quality was blatantly evident to me even then…
Also Prob from hanging around with my Dad and my Grandfather (born in 1898 and a machinist)…who also loudly complained about the quality of things… But I swear I was cogniscient of this on my own…I mean it seemed that everything SUCKED
Take the inner door panels of my first real car a 1980 Camaro with a smogged out 3.8L V6… I promptly changed the engine out with a 1970 Impala 350 2bbl… Which went to a 4bbl with aluminum intake, headers, and a big cam…I did all this when I was 15 in the backyard…engine swinging from a tree… Ah those were the days man… Oh yeah the inner door panels on my Camaro were made of pressed fiberboard!!! They blew up like a wet phone book when you got them wet…and then they just disintegrated in your hands after that…I mean THAT SUCKED…and really wasnt acceptable now or then…it was easy to figure that out.
Do you guys have similar stories?
Sorry to say this, but… If there’s something I’m good at it’s reading diagrams. I read the complete vacuum hose routing diagram on the underside of my hood, and figured out what each piece did. 
It took about an hour, but I think it was worth it.
During this period, Honda suffered the indignity of having a ship-load of its cars impounded on the pier in California by the EPA/CARB because a large percentage of them would not meet emissions requirements…This kind of negative publicity forced them to abandon their Micky-Mouse emissions control systems…
Yes, the Toyota trucks were available with carbs until 1991…But trucks were and still are allowed less stringent emissions standards…
Thats cool…but your issue doesnt lie there…Bemehiser…so C’mon bro…do that tune up man!
Caddyman, All Toyota Tercels and most Corollas were carbureted through 1986. The only FI Corolla was the AE86 with the 4AGE engine. All of the 3AC and 4AC engines were carb’ed. The Tercel wagons, both FWD and 4WD were carb through 88. Some Chevy Prism’s still used the Toyota 4AC engine through 89, but I’m not sure that it was available on any US bound Corolla’s past 86.
HB, yes, it brings back memories of colored pencils.
The tune up comes whenever it get to pull and save (pullandsave.com) and not before. i’m not rich, i can’t get pieces whenever and wherever i want. auto supply stores don’t even have pieces for my car. i live 30 miles from pull and save i’ll let you know whenever i get it done.
Check out rock auto, they may have your parts for a good price
I feel for you on that one. We had an 84 Civic Wagon. Honda made some changes in the 83-84 Civic wagon that did not affect the Civic sedans and coupes. The Sedans and Coupes were mostly unchanged from the earlier models. And since so few of the wagons were sold, the high volume auto parts stores (AutoZone) did not carry any parts for them, even when they were relatively new. Even NAPA and CarQuest did not carry a lot of the parts, most everything had to be special ordered at the dealer.
We had ours pre-internet. But I agree with texases about Rock Auto and would add autopartswarehouse.com to that list.
The 70s and 80s era of carburetors was a pain in the neck but maybe the car makers should not get all of the blame for those headaches. The heavy foot of the Federal government was being applied in regards to emissions and these carb systems was the pacifier until more modern systems were adapted.
Much is said about the Big Three problems in this area and of that era but all of the Japanese car makers had an equal, if not worse, share of carburetor and vacuum widget problems. Honda and Subaru was the worst of the lot. Honda because of their overengineered complexity and 19 miles of vacuum hose per car and Subaru because of their vapor lock tendency and the carburetor sections being very prone to warpage and air leaks.
I had an 82 Accord with the cvcc engine and The three barrel carburetor had a few mysteries attached to it. The tiny barrel leads to the auxiliary combustion chamber where the spark plug is located. When the spark lights the rich fuel mixture, the flame blows through five or six 1/8 inch holes into the main combustion chamber where the fuel is very leanly mixed.
All this is what makes the cvcc engine so economical. I never got less than 36 MPG.
There are many problems when you try to adjust the floats from outside the carb. The window that shows the fuel level wont help a lot if you turn the adjusters. Adjust the floats with the top of the carb off. Do yourself a favor, change the floats if you have the plastic ones where the top cover is glued on. Those floats can fill up with fuel and sink which causes too much fuel to go into the float bowl.
Don’t set the timing any other way than the manual says to. If the timing is advanced, the auxiliary valves will burn in a week and the exhaust valves could burn in two weeks. The vacuum advance hose is connected when the timing is set. In fact, the timing on Ca. cvcc engines is so retarded that the engines are hard to start when temperatures go into the teens.
If you want the exact opposite of this car, an 83 thru 87 Toyota Camry is a good example. Just open the hood on a 4 cylinder one and you will wonder how things could be so different. It looks like you can change the timing belt in 1/3 the time. The inverted oil filter is empty when you remove it and a tune up is a laugher with wires and distributor out in the open.
There are things I haven’t told you (I don’t know) but you can have your own fun without fear of me ruining it.
Bemehiser…the only thing you should be sourcing from the salvage yard is a couple sets of wires… EVERYTHING ELSE NEEDS TO BE NEW…otherwise there is no point in all of this. I would go online and buy your parts…no doubt you will save fundages… Most if not all Auto Parts places should have your tune up items with little or no trouble…maybe they have to order a part but they are ALL available. So you can grab 2 sets of used wires and ALL ELSE MUST BE NEW>…or you wont have a tune up done properly or up to the standards that we need here for diagnostic functionality.
Man, that diagram brought back memories.
When I had my Honda Accord, I poured over the vacuum diagram to see what I could eliminate and needed to keep when I put that Weber DGEV on it. And, it was Calif. emissions to boot! I managed to eliminate the box o’ mystery, and kept the vacuum advance and EGR circuit working. Like I said, we kept that car running for better than 5 years after that, and it just kept running and running.
Why are we discussing a carburetor on a 30-year-old cheap Japanese car? What a waste of time.
Mechaniker, you don’t have to be here, you know. No wanna read, no click.