67 mustang hard clutch

I have a 67 mustang fastback with a 4speed toploader. I installed a stock type clutch and pressure plate (auto Zone), new Hurst pro shifter. Everything seems fine with the linkage no binding, but the clutch pedal is very hard to push in and hold, it shifts fine just a hard pedal.

How many fingers for the diaphragm spring are there???

What I’ve found is the more fingers the easier it is the clutch. If it only has 4 fingers then it’s more difficult to press and hold.

Did you try greasing the clutch pedal equalizer rod under the hood?


Lay on your back and look under the dash at the clutch linkage. See that huge “helper” spring that’s supposed to provide a “power clutch” effect? Has it pulled the clutch cross shaft through its mounting bushing, and is the cross-shaft now digging into the support bracket? The cure is removing the spring and replacing the bushing and possibly the support bracket…The brake pedal is mounted on the other end of this shaft…

Yes, (MikelnNH) the diaphragm spring has more than 4 fingers I know what your talking about the 4 fingers is more for race or competition, good for strong grip on the preasure plate to flywheel, but hard on ones leg, and not so great for an everyday driver. I did grease the z bar, is that what you mean (Tester) by equalizer rod? Now, about this helper spring (Caddyman), I’m not sure if I understand what it does and where it is hooked, is this spring to help with depresing the clutch? I will look under the dash this weekend. I do notice that when I depress the clutch pedal the brake pedal seem to move, or rock towards me, this can’t be correct.

I had a '67 Mustang, purchased new and drove for many years. It was a 289 2 bbl with 3 speed stick. Compared to just about every car and/or truck I’ve driven since the Mustang had the toughest clutch to push in. It also took a good touch to get the car moving since 1st gear was still pretty tall.

I’m not saying you can’t find something else wrong with the clutch, but even the standard non competition Mustang clutch can give the left leg a workout.

You might want to check this out to see if could be the problem. http://www.mustangsteve.com/clutchbearings.html Especially since you mention the brake pedal is effected with the operation of the clutch pedal.


In my '67 GT-390 Fastback, there was a heavy spring which theoretically would help reduce clutch effort. This spring put tremendous tension on the clutch linkage and eventually destroyed the bushings detailed in the link Tester posted…Because of the clutch geometry, the spring did little or nothing to reduce clutch effort…

Impossible to remove without taking half the car apart, I carefully heated the spring with a propane torch until a coil turned red hot and relaxed at which point the spring could be removed…I was then able to rotate the damaged pot-metal bushing back into its correct position and never had any more trouble…It will all become clear when you get under there and inspect the clutch/brake mounting set-up. The spring I’m talking about is about 1.5" in diameter and 8" long, connected to a mounting point above the clutch pedal arm…

Thank, guys for the info. I will look under the car this weekend. I know that what is stiff clutch to one may not be to another, but compared to other manuals I’ve had 76 ford f-100 4x4, an old dodge pu d-100 4x4,(and, dare I say my 69 canaro which I installed the same type of clutch only it’s a zoom)the mustang’s clutch is ridiculously hard.