Blogs Car Info Our Show Deals Mechanics Files Vehicle Donation

2000 Mustang manual clutch problem

I just put a new clutch in about a month ago it worked fine for the last month then all the sudden my clutch pedal got real tight and it won’t go into gear unless the car is shut off then I can put it in a gear and pushing the clutch it’ll move a little bit and then go but if I let the car sit for a day it works for about 15-20 minutes perfectly fine then it starts doing that again what would it be is my clutch cable bad

Perhaps the clutch self-adjuster is worn out.

What is the model year and engine for your Mustang OP?

1 Like

2000 Mustang GT 4.6 if you let it sit for a day it’ll work perfect for about 10 minutes and then the clutch pedal is really hard to push in and you can’t get it in gear

You’ve got the TR3650 transmission, right? If so the clutch is hydraulic operated single-plate, dry-friction splined hub disc with a diaphragm-style spring pressure plate; i.e. pretty much a standard configuration. The hydraulic operation with master and slave cylinders means there are no adjustments needed to compensate for clutch wear.

This is where I’d start if I had that problem

  • Make sure there’s nothing obstructing the clutch pedal travel, like a broken pivot, or a problem with an interference w/ the clutch safety switch.
  • Verify the transmission fluid and clutch master cylinder fluid are full and in good condition. If pumping on the clutch pedal seems to eliminate the problem for a while at least , replace the clutch master cylinder on a flier.
  • Bleed any air from the hydraulic system.
  • Inspect the (external to the transmission ) gearshift mechanism for any obvious problems.
  • Check clutch pedal reserve (one inch minimum) and free play (1/2 inch maximum).
  • Try holding a bag of ice on the clutch MC for 5-10 minutes when this lock-up happens. Does that have any effect?

If you still got a problem after all that, you probably got a problem that’s going to require the transmission removed: clutch pressure plate, clutch disc, flywheel, pilot bearing, transmission input, slave cylinder, etc.

I’m no pro mechanic but I would check the clutch fork if I was having that problem.

Does your clutch make noise?
Consider checking clutch disc or pressure plate, release lever, release bearing, shift lever assembly, or control cable.

The 2000 Mustang GT had the T-45. The TR3650 was a running mid-year change for the 2001 model. The early 2001’s had the T-45, the later 2001’s had the TR3650. It uses a mechanical clutch. There’s no slave cylinder or anything.

It’s a mechanical clutch. Have your tried to use the self adjuster? Simply put the top of your foot (toe) underneath of the clutch pedal, and pull up with your toe so it’s like you’re trying to force the pedal up further than it’s typical resting position. If you feel one or more, clicks then it’s adjusting, and should exhibit improved behavior.

Oops , sorry about that OP. Must have been looking at the wrong model year. I looked up the 2000 Mustang GT, and indeed it is equipped w/the T-45 transmission, which uses a clutch cable rather than hydraulics. I’m surprised cable operated clutches lasted into the 2000’s. Maybe there’s a reason why cable clutches work best in performance applications like your V8 Mustang GT. The last cable operated clutch I had the privilege to operate was on my late 70’s VW Rabbit. It worked ok, but required quite a bit more force on the pedal than my early 90’s hydraulic clutch Corolla. The Rabbit’s clutch cable broke on me one time, but was easy enough to replace. Easier to replace the cable than replacing the master cylinder on the Corolla.

For you Mustang, could be the cable I suppose. On my Rabbit however the cable worked fine until it just snapped. At that point the clutch pedal would go all the way to the floor w/ease, b/c w/a broken cable it wasn’t doing anything. It didn’t become harder to press prior to the cable breaking. I guess if I had OP’s problem and a visual inspection of the pedal area and linkages didn’t turn up anything, I’d probably try replacing the cable before removing the transmission. But I’m guessing there’s probably a problem w/the pressure plate, broken spring, something like that.

That happened to me,my clutch was getting stuck and the oil was bad,I recommend checking your clutch fork

Umm… what? Lol nooo nooo the tr3650 does NOT use a hydraulic clutch system I assure you it’s a cable application. Can prove it with mine :sunglasses: however for a hefty 650-800$$ it could be hydraulic :ghost: