Only service due is an oil change. I agree that moisture would normally cause ignition problems, famously the distributor cap in the old days along with plug wires but I don’t have any indication of engine misfiring so I believe the moisture is attacking the 12 Volt wires somewhere. Thank you for your thoughts and input.
No need for Jack stands etc as I just crawl under the truck as it stands in my driveway. As I mentioned elsewhere, maybe the oil change people will let me go under the truck in their bay but slim hope, you know, the liability issue. I will take a closer look in the engine bay while I’m replacing the battery to see if I can see anything in the way of a loose connector et cetera but a cursory look the other day didn’t show very many connectors even visible. Thanks for you input.
Might try using a spray bottle of water and spraying around the engine bay while the engine is running checking for any changes, be careful around the throttle body and induction side…
You can also do a wiggle test of the wires/plugs and harnesses to see if moving them makes any difference… Be careful around moving parts…
You can also grab a DVOM and start check resistance/voltage drop at each end of wires both pos and grounds…
Or you can always look for a specialty automotive electrical shop for help, they can normally find these issues even when the dealer or others can’t…
Thank you for the information
Forgive me if I’ve got this wrong, but this is how I assess the situation . . .
You’re not a hardcore DIY guy
You’re just hoping for a silver bullet cure from one of us
Sorry I wasn’t able to do that for you 
1 Like
You need to be careful about making these assumptions- it can lead you down the wrong path. There’s an old saying- correlation does not imply causation. What you are assuming is humidity based may also just be heat related for example. That being said, it is a clue to the goings on and can help direct diagnostics. Troubleshooting by experimentation is sometimes successful but not typically the fastest route to a solution.
1 Like
You are forgiven. Before I got old, I was very much a DIY person both mechanically, electrically and to the extent that I sold my last house myself.
1 Like
Thank you, there are some good ideas here, particularly trying to locate an automotive electrical specialist, a search on which I have embarked, but it’s not easy to separate the wheat from the chaff.
So Twin Turbo, given that by the time I get to a dealer or repair shop, all indications of a problem will have disappeared, what would you do?
1 Like
You leave it over night… Sometimes longer…
2 Likes
I agree
intermittent problems can be extremely frustrating
It could be that for one week straight, the mechanic at the shop operates the vehicle and everything is working properly with no fault codes and no warning indicators
And the next day, all ___ breaks loose and you’ve got the warning indicators, fault codes, etc.
2 Likes
What I would do is probably irrelevant to your situation. I have diagnostic tools and expertise troubleshooting such things.
If I was in your position, just based only on what has been posted here, would be to disable the annoyance of the traction control going on/off and wait for a more consistent failure. Or, if it really is repeatable at your house under certain parking conditions, then see if the service shop has a similar arrangement where they can replicate your conditions and hopefully, the same failure mode. Then they can use their scanners, schematics and diagnostic troubleshooting expertise to get to root cause.
All of the codes you cited relate to the fuel pressure regulator control and or pressure readings. Armed with a schematic, I would hook up my scope and look at those signals/control wires while massaging the relevant connectors and/or relevant power distribution box elements to see if I could elicit the errors.
Apparently the Traction control system cannot be disabled. There is a switch which is supposed to allow you to turn it off. That switch was on, however the StabililTrak failure light came on anyway.
Of course I have given thought to taking the vehicle to a service shop with “scanners, schematics and diagnostic troubleshooting expertise” and leaving it there waiting for the problem to reoccur. Do they exist anymore? I have given a written description of the problem to a local service shop and am waiting to hear if they are prepared to tackle the problem.
If by some chance you happen to have a schematic for a Canyon, perhaps you could take a quick look and give me an idea of the circuitry/location of hardware that activates the StabililTrak failure indicator. I gave away my oscilloscope years ago but I do have a voltmeter which, hopefully, would suffice. Thank you for your interest and if you live in Florida I’ll swing by and you can have a look.
All of us professional mechanics work at shops with scanners, wiring diagrams, access to service information, etc.
Yes
They still exist
1 Like
This is where we fall over like the commercial with the M&Ms and Santa 
I had a pesky issue I couldn’t attend to right away but wanted to disable the traction control nuisance engagement. So I unplugged one front ABS sensor ( it was right there on the frame rail by the wheel well liner) and bagged the connectors. No ABS but also no traction control engagement…
Lots of inputs can trigger loss of stabilitrak. My favorite on the TB is the failure prone steering wheel angle sensor. I did a short expose on that little charm some time back on this site. But I believe many different faults can trigger the system to disable it. In your case, I think that error is the result of the real problem- some issue with the fuel pressure control that causes the ECM to go into low power mode and signal the PCM to disable traction control. The problem to be understood is the fuel pressure fault codes and the other issues will resolve with them.
Traction control is disabled when the check engine light is on, that is the reason you see that message. Until you repair the engine performance problem you will not have the benefit of traction control.
Don’t ask for the traction control to be repaired, your vehicle has a problem with the high-pressure fuel pump/fuel pressure control solenoid or associated wiring (check engine light).
1 Like
True, the OBD reader indicates the fuel system to be at fault however I rather doubt it as I now leave the truck out in the sun and the problem has not re-occurred for the last week/150 miles. I gave a detailed write-up regarding the situation to a local garage on the 6th and not surprisingly have not heard back from them since. Given that this problem has been occurring for over 2 years I would think if there were a problem with the fuel system it would have manifested itself with an actual failure. The fact that when the vehicle is left in high humidity area the failure comes on and when it’s put out in the sunlight there is no problem, tends to make one think that it has nothing to do with the fuel system or Stabilitrak. The only reason I have tried to resolve this problem is
that it started occurring more often since I came to Florida.
Maybe Florida doesn’t like your truck 
What you’re not understanding is that the system has controls and feedback signals. If one (or more) of the feedback signals is corrupted, the truck will think there is a problem and attempt to mitigate it. Your truck diagnostic feedback signal(s) for the fuel system are indicating an error at times. This is triggering the response you see from the engine and powertrain computers. Those errors in the feedback signals may not be because there is a real problem with the control circuit but the feedback signals are corrupted in some way. The controls can be fine- if the diagnostic feedbacks are messed up- you get what you see happening. Hopefully, a professional mechanic can figure it out for you…
1 Like
Mechanics may not like to be on the receiving end of something like that. They’ll feel obligated to understand it all before starting any work, and often they won’t be able to completely understand what you are saying. When received in writing, they probably prefer something simple and easy to understand, like "the engine fails to crank cold, but it cranks ok when warm. Started happening immediately after the battery cable was replaced. "
2 Likes
Thanks for the explanation and I agree to some degree. Specifically “Those errors in the feedback signals may not be because there is a real problem with the control circuit but the feedback signals are corrupted in some way.” I am of opinion that the corruption is due to moisture condensing on the engine block or similar and affecting/shorting one of the lines conducting those signals. Should the problem come on permanently, then I will try and find a ‘professional’ mechanic.