I have a 2017 4 cyl 4WD GMC Canyon which has an intermittent problem.
Sometimes ( 1 in 3) when I start the truck three lights stay on, 1) Traction Control system(StabiliTrak), 2) Traction control system Traction off light and 3)the check engine light. Also there is a message saying “Engine power is reduced”. The cruise control light may be on but cruise cannot be set or used.
After driving for some time (>15 mins) if I stop and turn the engine off, pause and turn it on again the traction control system lights go off and everything returns to normal although sometimes the check engine light stays on for awhile but eventually goes off.
This problem only happens occasionally and only when I start the engine from cold.
Normally no warning lights are on.
By the time I’ve driven it toa dealer to have it checked everything is back to normal. I would sure appreciate any ideas that someone might have in regard to this problem which by the way seems to be related to moisture and maybe wiring but that’s just a guess.
Knucklehead diyer here, no Canyon experience. My guess is there some sort of intermittant powertrain problem. lf you can catch it when the problem is occurring, look for a “current” diagnosistic code in the OBD II memory. If the problem has already gone away, look for a “history” cood. Whatever codes you find, post the numbers here. Usually they contain numbers that start with “P”. e.g. P0141
I just purchased an OBD code reader and there seems to be hundreds of reading, but anyway when I when the problem occurs I’ll throw the reader on it and see what I come up with. Give me a few days and I’ll get back to you. I really appreciate the feedback.
The reader will be able to show tons and tons of “PIDs” (Parameter IDs), but all you need to do is catch it with the warning lights on and ask it for error codes. IF you manage that, then write down the exact codes (don’t even bother with the text). They’ll be a letter followed by 4 digits.
If you bought a generic OBD code reader, it might not be good enough as it will only show you “P” (for powertrain) codes and only generic ones, but not GM specific ones. The generic codes are all between P0000 and P0999. P1xxx and up will be Gm specific as with things like “C” (chassis) or “B” (body) codes and so forth.
Have you actually had a dealer look at it? They will have a GM “Tech 2” scanner which should be able to read history codes (ones that have been set and disappeared), tho’ I don’t know what gets codes stored as history.
This might not be the answer to your problem, but it is something you should be aware of.
The bad news would be a module problem. Whenever rebooting solves a problem I get suspicious.
You’re going to have to retrieve any stored fault codes and post them
Otherwise, you may just get wild guesses, imo
Some of us are quite familiar with that generation GMC Canyon, btw . . . but we still something more to work with
Ouch, scary but good to know. can’t hurt to check. Tnx, John.
How is the condition of your battery? In my Camaro, the Stabilitrac warning comes on intermittently (when starting) when the battery is close to gone. I also had a case where I let the battery go for a few months and I got a slew of codes when I got the car running. Charged it up, cleared the codes, and they never came back.
Definitely worth a try. I purchased a new battery to install when I was in the cold weather world, but since I came south to Florida I haven’t installed it yet however the battery is definitely on the way out. I will replace it and see if that does any good. Thanks for the idea.
When I hit reply to send this reply I got a message saying that only one photo was allowed so I’ve had to delete all the photos except the one showing an error code
I Plugged in my OBD 2 reader to get readings when things were normal and it showed:
“No codes were stored in the module”
with the engine running. A few minutes later all of a sudden the 3 error lights came on with messages:.
“Engine power is reduced”
“Service StabiliTrak”
I have taken photos of all the OBD ll various readings but I’m not sure which are significant. The data stream screens do not seem to show anything significant.
The trouble code screens (one shown)
show the following codes, P0090, P0091. P00C8 & P00C9 indicate Manufacturer Control. Given that I have driven for 50 years without the need for either of these features and I don’t plan to do any off roading, I would be interested in how I can completely disable these two features. I am fearful that going to a dealer will leave me penniless and still with a truck that fails. Again, any ideas are appreciated.
You’re having an issue with your fuel pressure regulator solenoid and/or circuitry. This is why the computer is limiting engine power, and likely the only reason that you’re getting the StabiliTrak warning. (If the engine can’t do full power, then the StabiliTrak won’t function correctly. And it’s not only relevant to off-roading. Heavy rain. Any amount of snow/ice…)
You can’t disable these things.
I can’t comment on any of the technical details as I don’t know the fuel pressure regulator set-up on this vehicle. Hopefully, some other members here have direct knowledge of the system and can advise you.
You don’t need a dealer. Ask around for a locally owned, independent shop with a good reputation. They can deal with it. Fuel pressure regulator issues are pretty common.
Good for you for narrowing the problem down. Concur w/CR above, focus on finding a shop to fix the fuel pressure regulator problem. It may not be overly serious or expensive to repair. By the posts we get here, this vehicle seems to tend to develop difficult to diagnose problems (the forum search feature might prove helpful) , so try to find an inde shop with some Canyon-diagnostic experience if possible.
lol … my gf refuses to go to her dealership for that exact reason … “tricky, always trying to make me pay for something else that I didn’t come in for!” …
How old is the battery? Older, unused batteries can go bad too. If you haven’t lived in Florida long, you might replace the battery now. You have it after all. Also, heat is a battery killer. I live in Maryland and my batteries last 3 or 4 years. You have several more hot months than we do. I’ve also found that batteries under the hood go bad quickly compared to ones located under a seat or in the trunk. Yours is under the hood.
This truck has GDI . . . so any work on the high side of the fuel system is going to be a little more complex and costly, imo
That said, the fuel module inside the tank is on the low side and there seems to be a regulator in there, based on the rockauto pictures I’m seeing
I don’t have any experience with that particular code on a 2017 Canyon, fwiw . . . but I’d get under the truck and very carefully inspect the wiring going to the fuel module. There are also some basics you can check, such as power and ground. The low side is safe to work with, as the pressures are NOT sky high
The new, uninstalled battery needs to be fully charged before you install it.
Thank you all for your input. I have found that the problem goes away and stays away including the engine light (fuel pressure issue), if I leave the truck out in the sunlight here in central Florida. If I leave the truck under the carport, the morning dew or humidity always causes the problem to reoccur. There’s no doubt now in my mind that the problem is moisture shorting a couple of wires or contacts somewhere. The location of the possible short is a total mystery to me and I really don’t know where to look. I don’t see any exposed wires anywhere other than near the battery. So, I guess I’m just going to have to live with the problem until it becomes solid. Very frustrating. I have crawled underneath but was unable to see anything however lying on the ground made looking rather difficult. As I’m due for an oil change, maybe I’ll ask the folks there to take a look around while they’re undoing the drain plug. Who knows I may get a keener who really will try to help. I know that it’s all sounds rather unlikely but I’ve had the problem for a couple of years now on and off but I believe my analysis regarding moisture is correct. If anyone has any ideas relative to moisture and where to look, again I would be most appreciative. As an aside, I will be replacing the battery as it’s near end of life.
Since you seem to be sure the problem is moisture-related, have you carefully inspected the engine bay wiring and connectors for proper fit, corrosion and rat damage?
fwiw . . . it sounds like you don’t actually have any kind of fuel system problem whatsoever, based on what you’ve told us so far, imo
Do you have a very bright work light, jack and jack stands?
If you intend to safely work on your truck . . .
Problems associated w/ moisture or damp air makes me think first of the high voltage components of the ignition system. On your car presumably that would mostly be the ignition coils & spark plugs. Beyond that, crank & cam position sensors, wiring or fuse problem, ignition switch and the rest of the ignition system, battery/alt system, pcm problem.
I there any routine service due now for any of those? If so, might be a good idea to have it done asap.
As I mention above, I’m just a knucklehead diy’er, but I had a VW Rabbit years ago with similar dampness-related symptoms, turned out to be the ignition coil. It was very difficult to diagnose. Eventually I just took a guess & replaced that part and it solved the problem immediately. Best of luck.