after warm up, at full trottle car jerks, and gose into limp mode. new throttle body, maf, map, boost sensor been replaced
Is there a check engine light on? if so, post the codes.
most Autopart’s stores will scan your car for free.
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I’m guessing engine is missing on full-throttle for some reason. Computer considers missing a serious problem b/c it can damage cat. Might be some problem w/fuel, air, or spark. As poster above suggests, stored diagnostic codes would provide some clues
I had numerous codes.
#1 over boost. Boost gauge did not go past 15psi.
#2 P00ii code, maf, eap, egr boost sensor, egr and TP.
#3 High intake temp
#4 Air temp sensor.
I have the Ancel AD 530 I did a data stream check and engine running and all was ok,
Went through each code and only found, with engine off, Accelerator pedal to the floor, was 50.8%.
NEW MAF, MAP, BOOST SENSOR AND WAIST GATE IS OK, NEW THROTTLE BODY. I TESTED AN OLD THROTTLE PEDAL AND IT WAS BAD.
BOOST CONTROLER IS TURNED OFF TO WAISTE GATE, SO I’M JUST GETTING THE BOOST LATER, THAN PUSHING THE CONTROLLER TO 8 LBS. EARLIER ON. I HAVE THE BANKS PEDAL MONSTER. EVEN DICONNECTED, IT GOSE INTO LIMP MODE.
YOU THINK IT’S THE ACCELORATOTR PRDAL SENSOR ?
NO ONE WILL HONOR THE EXSTENED WARRANTY, BECAUSE OF THE COLD AIR INTAKE. MAX CARE, SAID THEY ONLY COVER STOCK PARTS AND THE MOD IS NOT. I’LL HAVE TO PUT THE STOCK AIR FILTER BACK ON, BUT THE CAT BACK FLOWMASTER EXAUST, IS STILL A ISSUE WITH A Repair shop. Not with the warranty company. Any help would be appreciated. I am an ASE TECH AND 33 YEARS IN AVIATION AS AN AMT AND PILOT. THANKS, PAUL.
PS, DAMN CHEVY CRUZ, ARE A PAIN TO FIX, UNLESS YOU HAVE A DINO AND 15K IN TEST EQUIPMENT.
Meh, Extended, after market warranties rarely are worthwhile. Why would you expect it to cover modifications you made?
Why all the modifications to an economy grocery getter?
Now you need to find a shop that is willing to work on your Frankencar.
Or strip off all the junk and restore the stock parts.
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I think I’ll get a Cruz and play with the turbo and exhaust. Why? Why did you get a wimpy car and decide to bump the power? Why not get a nicer, more powerful car to start with?
If I had that problem and nothing obvious discovered, I’d return the vehicle to 100% stock configuration, then add each modification one at a time, drive for a while to see if any problems or diagnostic codes develop. If not, add another one. etc etc.
Another approach might be to eliminate the modification OP thinks is the most likely cause first, then do the test above. If problem goes and stays away, at least the cause is narrowed down to that particular modification.
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Why don’t you tell us what those number actually were. It would help.
It very well could be.
Tester