No, I can believe exactly what you say. The frontline people get the brunt of the frustration and the blame, but frequently they are set up by poor oversight, questionable ethics or out-and-out encouragement and reinforcement of unethical behavior by those for whom they work. Yet the mechanic or technician gets the blame and no responsibility taken by their management.
Yeah, the dealership needs mechanics . . . but management’s attitude doesn’t always reflect that fact
I don’t know what to say really. I think you want to look at the inspection list and see what was checked and what the report is. For the number of items, I guess they would have had to check all the main functions such as brakes, tires, and make sure everything works. I’ve bought new and used from privates and dealers and really only once when I was a kid had an inspection. It saved me from buying a heap of junk and had I done that with the Morris Minor, I would have got it for $50 instead of $125. On a used car though, I always expected to have to spend a little on tires, brakes, cooling, belts, battery, paint, etc. to bring it up to snuff and never really had a lot of surprises.
I suspect the dealer inspection covered all the points a private inspection would but really unless doing a compression test, pulling the oil pan, I’m not sure what else would be gained by another inspection of the same items. I’d be more concerned about having some type of bumper to bumper warranty in addition to the drive train but really I’ve never gotten one with a used car. So I guess I’m just saying to take a look at the check sheet and see if you trust it or not and follow your intuition. I’m still saying though to look at new as a comparison but lots of people trade every 2-4 years with perfectly good cars and those cars are re-sold as used.
Yes the warranty includes 7 year, 100000 miles drive train from the day of the initial purchase of the vehicle.
Look, it’s probably a car that was leased for 3 years, 36,000 mile limit, and the lease is run out. They turned it in and the dealer shined it up, inspected it, and is selling it for the higher end of the right price range, but it’s likely in decent shape and not a bad deal. The only question is whether the regular maintenance has been done (oil, brakes, etc.). You should make sure all the 3 year or 35000 mile services are done - coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc. The dealer has guidelines for this stuff in the service department, so hold them to it.
I assume the Certified thing is a Honda USA commitment for the warranty? Is that true?
You are right about that. I will ask about the 3 year 35000 miles service, if they would do it for free. The work done includes: 182 point safety check, air filter, transmission fluid, Lube/oil/filter, Cabin filter, Rotate/balance, wiper inserts ( front and back) and detailing. Will ask for a copy of what exactly includes in the inspection and ask their mechanic to walk me through it. Many thanks
According to the Car Fax report:
|Type of Coverage:||Original Warranty:||Estimated Remaining Coverage:|
|Basic||36 months or 36,000 miles||Coverage expired|
|Drivetrain||60 months or 60,000 miles||17 months or 27,367 miles|
|Emissions||96 months or 80,000 miles||53 months or 47,367 miles|
|Corrosion||60 months or unlimited mileage||17 months or unlimited mileage|
Basically you are buying a used vehicle with very little real warranty when for just a little more you could have a new CRV with full coverage .
I agree with Volvo-V-70. A few more dollars for a brand new vehicle will rule out any potential issues.
What I don’t get is why they’re selling a vehicle with an engine vibration that has been certified as a CPO vehicle.
If it were me and I felt an engine vibration I’d say thanks, but no thanks and move on.
Folks, I decided to get a pre-purchase inspection by my mechanic. The car comes with 7 year 100000 miles warranty from the Honda as well as a certified bumper to bumper warranty of 1 year, 30,000 miles from the dealer too. I will keep you posted and let you know how the day unfolds. Thanks for being there for me
Dear all, took the car to my mechanic and he did a thorough inspection. He found that following:
replace back tires and changed and the brake rotors. He said that the dealer might replace them as he does not want to lose customers. Well, the dealer said that both of the jobs will cost $300 each. He will take care of only one of the jobs as a courtesy. Given that the price is very competitive, he will not be able to cover both the repairs. Decided to go ahead with the repairs. Will keep you folks posted. Thanks
You should not have to do any repair on a CPO vehicle . You are going to spend money on a vehicle and I have to wonder what else they certified that they shouldn’t.
My mechanic said that the car is in a great condition. He thought that the dealer would put genuine parts and once done, I don’t have to worry about anything. As a matter of fact, I asked them to email me the copy of the 182 point inspection and it says clearly on the sheet that the tires 8/32 front and 5/32 rear and Brakes MM.
Well good for you. You are certainly telling them that you are no fool anyway. At 32,000 my tires are down to 5/32 (9/32 new). That’s not terribly bad but in the yellow from green but not red yet at 3/32. For me I’m planning that probably get new tires before winter (I figure 1/32 per about 7-8000 miles). So 5 isn’t really requiring immediate attention. Then maybe just get four new ones sometime. Tires are expensive but still no big deal and they wear constantly.
Tire recommendation is to replace at 4/32 , that means a certified vehicle should have better measurements than that. And not by 1/32 .
My son and I are patiently handling the car situation. Thanks to you folks and your guidance.
I am so glad that I did not drive the car home last Saturday. The day off allowed us to deeply think about the car and make sure we hit all the points on our check list:-)
Just my humble opinion again, but I strongly feel that a late model, low miles, Certifed CPO car that went through a 182 point inspection should need absolutely nothing.
During an inspection if a problem is found then that issue should be taken care of before the car is placed for sale.
A Certifed CPO car and you’re already being tagged for reair bills? This dealer may have a “good reputation” but that can also be misleading.
I’m curious about what your mechanic had to say about the engine vibration you mentioned.
Anyway, good luck.
Good call to pay your own mechanic for an inspection. It seems you’ve saved yourself a little money too.
My mechanic mentioned that he had worked on several CRV’s and the vibration is not prominent in this car.