If replacing while changing the spark plugs it shouldn’t cost much more as you have to remove the COP’s in order to replace the plugs anyway… Maybe 0.5 labor… Now if replacing them after the fact then a different story…
I made a bit of noise about the oil cooler being replaced once already and then having to take my jeep there four times for the same problem so they did give me a discount. Just happy it’s resolved.
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I have a further update.
Jeep ran great but four days later the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I called the mechanic back, not happy. He had me come by to check the code. It was P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch high.
They had just changed the oil cooler last week. He cleared the code and said it was probably a glitch and not to worry. Engine light came on again.
Thoughts?
Look at live data to see what the reading is and then use a mechanical gauge to see what it showing… Could have a back sensor or wiring or a sticking oil pressure relive valve… Also make sure the correct oil was used…
I didn’t look for any TSBs, just speaking in general…
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Just curious, did a dashboard oil pressure warning light turn on also, in addition to the check engine light?
No. Just the check engine.
hmmm … computer thinks there’s something wrong with the oil pressure monitoring electrical circuit, but that doesn’t turn on the low oil pressure warning light? Seems like that could lead to a major problem if the oil pressure actually was low.
Did the check engine light flash on and off? Or on steady?
Or another idea, maybe this Jeep has two ways to measure the oil pressure, and only one was inoperative. Does your Jeep display the actual measured oil pressure on the dashboard? Or only a low oil pressure warning light?
You can’t believe oil gauges in most cars, a lot of them are just dummy gauges.
Like this one, the oil pressure sending unit is just an on/off switch, anything above 5psi puts the gauge in the middle, gauge either reads 0 or middle, no in between.
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Ah-ha, good explanation. Sort of makes a person wonder why the car’s designers would use so much dashboard space for just an on/off switch display.
There appears to be a warning light associated w/the “gauge” display. Still pondering why low oil pressure warning light didn’t turn on?
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Because people think it’s better than an idiot light, give the people what they want.
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I can see marketing being the explanation. Were I choosing among variouis cars, I’d give a “+” merit to one that looked like it used an actual gauge.
My truck uses an actual oil pressure gauge. Same sensor, same gauge, 40 years.
With an open circuit the computer can’t read the oil pressure. Logic in the computer could turn on the low oil pressure warning but what are the chances of both malfunctions at the same time?
The owner’s manual states if the low oil pressure light is on to switch off the engine and not to operate the engine. Should someone be stranded because of a broken wire?
Another update to what is becoming a mysterious journey.
Took it back on Wednesday for the oil pressure sensor code and check engine light. They had it all day and called to say they needed an extra day. Kept it all day Thursday. Called to say it was done.
Here is what the invoice stated:
“Check engine light on three days after oil cooler replaced. Check connector for possible issues with pins.
Found active DTC P0523 oil pressure sensor circuit open. Removed upper intake and lower intake to inspect oil pressure sensor connector. Found connector had exposed wires making contact with each other. Cut wires on connector, performed wire repair to connector. Reassembled upper and lower intake manifold. Road tested. DTC did not return”
I took the keys and started it up. Check engine light was on. Service guy was astounded. Took it back in and sent me home.
Called me today and said they are mystified. Replaced the sensor and it didn’t help. Had shop foreman on it too.
Told me to take it home and bring it back next week.
Weird.
Unfortunately a shop is only as good as it’s best mechanic, may need to try a different shop…
Or tell them next time to drive it more then once… Sometimes it takes several drive cycles to turn the CEL back on…
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Welllllll another update. When last we left you they had finally corrected the original issue of hesitation finding it was ignition coil. We also replaced the oil cooler, spark plugs and two oil changes along this journey.
But since their work the check engine light is on and they can’t get it off. They first thought it was dirty connector pins. They noted “bare wires making contact”. Eventually they told me they hadn’t figured it out and to take the jeep back and bring it back later. I did so.
So yesterday the advisor calls me and he is very sheepish. He says he was told to make this call and get me to agree to a deal. Apparently bare/stripped wires has caused an issue with PCM and it needs to be replaced. $1600+. And the boss is offering me 50%.
I said well this sounds like something that wasn’t there til you guys worked on it. Advisor more or less agreed and said you know, call the boss. It was going to be a few days for the part so I picked it up. When I did I told the advisor I didn’t think I should be out of pocket at all and asked him what he would do. He looked down and said “exactly what you’re doing”.
Today the boss called me. Admitted he didn’t think the issue pre-existed, said he didn’t want me covering it all and offered 50%. I said well why would I cover anything. He said he could do to Chrysler and ask them to cover it but was not confident. I said well I can’t be out of pocket here. So that’s where it is.
Frustrating situation indeed. hmmm … seems the most likely explanation is the shop tech made some sort of error in replacing the coil or the oil cooler, which shorted out some oil pressure sensor wires. And the shorted wires damaged the PCM. No way to know for sure what exactly happened or whether what happened is what damaged the PCM, but the scenario seems plausible at least.
On a 2014, with several unknowns, my guess is about the best you can expect is the shop to split the cost to replace the PCM with you, and you’ll have to negotiate the exact formula with them. If your PCM is indeed damaged, the damage is likely only to a small portion of the circuity, so one alternative, maybe there is a business somewhere that might be able to repair it… One idea, your shop installs a new PCM, and keeps the old one, gets it repaired, then they’ll have a spare for the next time this happens.
This is a problem that comes w/computerized cars. No computer at all on my Ford truck, most any drivetrain part I’ll ever need will likely be available indefinitely. And relatively inexpensive. They can’t supply a PCM for $35 like you could purchase a DVD player which is considerably more complex, b/c there are so few PCM’s needed. Unable to take advantage of economy of scale like is possible w/DVD players.
I definitely want to be fair. But the reaction of both the advisor and the service manager make me think they think it’s their fault. Not a lot of assertiveness. Sheepish.
The service manager flat out said “do I think you’d have a program with this if we hadn’t worked on it? No”.
I have a hard time paying 50% then. Their labor costs are whatever since they’re paying their techs anyway. The real cost is the part from Chrysler. They should get Chrysler to kick in the part and the shop pays the labour.
I think it seems clear they did something. They know they did something. I’m not sure I should bend on paying anything. Especially when you consider the in around i for for the initial issue.
You all won’t believe this.
So we argued about the PCM replacement and they agreed to do it at no cost to me.
They did that today. They kept it all day to do a couple of road tests to ensure the check engine light remained off. Called me to pick it up at closing time. I get in, start it up and check engine light is on.
Advisor and tech were there and both flabbergasted. They are at a complete loss as to what is going on. Next step (and probably should have done already) is for them to engage “tech support” for advice.
This thread has been going on since the end of May, sorry you are having this frustration. In your original top post, you mention the oil level was found to be low. That could have caused internal engine problems. Has your shop tested the engine’s compression numbers? If the compression is too low , no amount of fiddling elsewhere will provide a solution. I’m presuming the engine compression tests ok.
As far the the PCM replacement, for the check engine light to turn on in many cases a diagnostic code must first be stored in the “pending” section of PCM memory, then later to the “active” section. Suggest to ask your shop techs to monitor both sections of diagnostic memory during testing after a PCM replacement. It may well be that when they believed the job was completed & successful, there were actually diagnostic codes waiting in the “pending” section. Then when you started the engine, that was enough to move them to the “active” section and turn on the CEL.
btw, since the CEL is on, what are the diagnostic codes?
Code is P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/switch circuit.
I didn’t quite catch what the advisor said but he was talking to the tech and said they replaced an oil connection something or other. I know they thought it was dirty “prong” initially. Then replaced the entire connector. And then figured it was the PCM.