My 2014 Honda CR V now have multiple warning lights on, such as Tire Pressure Monitor, Electric Power Steering, Vehicle Stability Assist, and Parking Brake Light. I found sometimes turn off, e.g. after I drove few kilometers and turn-off and turn-on engine again. what caused the problem? thanks in advance for your help.
All these warning lights going off and you still DRIVE this car??
It needs to go to a repair shop right away when all the lights are on so the mechanic can diagnose the problem(s). There is a very long list of things that might turn those lights on.
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I assume that your check-engine light is one of the lights that’s on. If so, you need to have the codes read. Most auto parts stores will do this for free.
No, the check engine light never on. only the 4 warning lights on sometimes. last night I parked my car inside of garage, this morning is fine, so have any idea? Thank you.
wrong; the dealer may claim you need $2000 worth of repairs;
time to get a $35 DTI code reader from Amazon and look for codes; I always keep a code reader in the glove box.
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He said shop, NOT dealer.
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I don’t know, could a weak battery cause these symptoms?
That would be the good first thing to check. if it’s the original battery, it certainly could be ready for replacement. My auto parts store will check it for free and replace it if it’s bad.
It could well be something simple, like the battery or alternator. If you know how, measure the battery voltage before first start of the day. It should be about 12.6 volts. Next measure it after starting the engine. At idle it should measure 13.5-15.5. volts. If you measure anything outside those ranges, that has to be addressed first.
Do you really think the original poster can handle the reading of codes? especially since;
This isn’t a code your $35 reader can get. This takes a code reader that can read ABS/TCS/ESP steering and TPMS codes.
I never suggested the poster go to the dealer.
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Yes, it could be a weak battery.
You so funny .
I agree with @Mustangman, your cheapo POS $35 DTI code reader isn’t going to cut it.
Any one besides Jared see where the dealer was mentioned?
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Thank you all expert and professional who have provided any comment, great help for me.
I had checked battery and alternator, (referenced from YouTube), figure out this is a battery problem, such as 12.3 volt after parked inside garage, and Cold-cranking amps lower than 7 volts.
I switched new battery, now everything is fine. great. saved money.
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Thanks for getting back and reporting the outcome - and the single and not so expensive repair for the many problems. Most people here want to learn as well as to help. We learn by hearing the whole story!
Several electrical problems reported here in the last few months have been resolved by a new battery, hooked up with clean connections.
With all the computerization of modern cars, a proper source of power is needed for proper functioning, as you have discovered. Glad it was something so straightforward.
Good for you for getting your Honda back on the road without the warning lights and running reliably.
You probably mean the battery was so weak its voltage measured only 7 volts during cranking. That’s probably what was causing all the warning lights. The car’s computers have to be powered up continuously for the various functions to work seamlessly. If they ever get powered off they forget their stored parameters & have to go through a re-initialization. 7 volts is probably not a high enough voltage to keep the computers powered up, so your car was having to repeatedly re-initialize after each cranking event, and that was confusing it. .
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Hi All,
I had multiple warning lights on my 2014 Honda CRV and having read your comments decided to take my CRV to the dealer. I only wish I had a low voltage battery issue. Mine happens to be a stretched timing chain. This will be a $1500+ touch. Merry Christmas to me.
Word of warning, if you have extended warranty and do your own oil changes and maintenance keep all your receipts as well as document date and mileage and maintenance performed. While I have all the dates of maintenance documented and mileage documented I don’t have receipts of replacement parts etc therefore extended warranty null. expensive lesson. So if your lights go on- take it to your dealer and have them run the diagnostics and spend the $$ not the $$$$.
Did you expect the dealer to take your word for the oil changes? Anybody can buy a notebook and fill it up with claimed maintenance after the engine seizes.
Even if you have your oil changed at other places than the dealer, you still need the receipts.
I do all my own work and save ALL the receipts.
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Well I have the same lights on my dash for the 100th time saying CamShaft Position Sensor. We changed the timing chain and actulator…. lights stayed off for like a month. Lights came back on and we changed the battery…. now lights come on like every 4 key turns 
When lights are off it runs perfect, but when lights are on it has hiccups around 50-60 mph and eats gas.
You engine probably sports variable valve timing (VVT). The three most likely to fail parts for that function are the timing chain, the VVT actuator, and the camshaft position sensor. You already changed the first two, maybe it is now time to change the sensor. A shop having a pro-level scan tool can probably test for a sensor problem.
Remember that properly maintaining the engine oil level and oil quality is especially critical for engines having the VVT function. Monitor oil level on the dipstick frequently and top off if more than 1/2 quart low, don’t ever defer oil & filter changes, and always use the oil specification recommended. Buy the replacement oil filters from the dealership.