You need to take this to a mechanic.
With respect, you’re grasping at straws here.
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I understand but trying to DIY as much as possible. I don’t have/know mechanic and I know many can be untrustworthy. I’m also tight with cash as I just spent $270 on battery. I mean I can pay for the repair but you know…
Curious, what kind of battery did you buy? My dealership, different brand of vehicle, batteries with 3 year warranty are less than $200 installed. When installed they use a memory saver so learned parameters are not lost.
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Agreed, $270 for a battery is really expensive.
Sometimes is actually costs more money to try and do something yourself. Not trying to beat up on you… but a mechanic could likely knock this out better and faster and cheaper.
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Well, then, you should be trying the stuff the professional mechanics have suggested- regarding the limp mode like operation and the lightning bolt warning light- did you even try the fix shown in the video that Tester posted?
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I see several lights but not the charging light.
The first step any mechanic would do is hook up a scan tool and read all modules for fault codes and look at relevant data–before even opening the hood. Without that info you’re flying completely blind.
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In the 1st post the OP said it was a diehard battery… According to ADV it takes an AGM battery… And the price is about what the OP said it was…
Back to, you need to take this to someone (shop) that knows how to diagnose your issue, you are showing that you are in way over your head…
I think George covered it here pretty good… check google for reviews etc etc…
I didn’t see that video. I will check for sure thank you.
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I was an Interstate dealer for 15+ years, at times, I kept over 50 battery’s in stock, I am an Interstate Brand believer, trust me, I love Interstates, even my little lawn mower has a cute little Interstate battery in it… But Interstates website is not always right, I know a lot of Jeeps had AGM’s…
But if you go to Advance Auto (DieHard), AutoZone (yuk) and Napa sites, they all show it calls for an AGM battery…
I didn’t see what battery came out of it, so I can not tell you what it calls for…
I bought an AMG but don’t think the previous one I took out was an AMG. Weird. I’ll take a pic.
This is not a charging light, as I already stated. You’re out of your league here.
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Did you turn the ignition on and wait for the electronic throttle control to calibrate before cranking the engine?
Calibration can also be performed with a professional diagnostic scan tool.
ahhh…thanks. I did not do that, I just cranked it. So your saying I can still try to calibrate it or it’s too late?
Perform the calibration using the accelerator pedal as shown in the video. If that doesn’t work, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and try again.
Suggest whenever measurements are made, be sure they make their way to a piece of paper, dated, pertinent notes added, & placed in the vehicle’s repair file. 14 volts when entine is running is probably ok, but 12.4 volts is too low for the first start of the day after sitting unused overnight, unless it was very cold, 12.4 volts might still crank the engine, but is indicative of a failing or discharged battery. @Tester’s post above is correct, there are technically complicated tests required to verify the condition of the charging system and battery on newer designs. This sort of testing might produce an inexpensive invoice however. One of the downsides of computerized cars.
!2.4 volts is an acceptable state of charge for an AGM battery.
Tester
Well testers video solved the problem . Thank you very much!!! So happy . And to the others that said to just take it to mechanic and stop trying to DIY……well look at the result . What’s the probability that I would’ve taking it to mechanic and possibky got taking advantage of? How many mechanics would’ve said “ I just performed a simple reset by turning the key etc.” all you owe me is $50-$100 bucks?
Now I have to find out about the check engine light . Are getting those codes a DIY thing? Thanks again everyone . Truly appreciate the help .
Good job…
That was answered in post 13, read below…
Now on your way to the local auto parts house to have your codes pulled, make sure to write them down or better yet, take a pic of them all, then post them here and get your air pressure adjusted… If you are still in the area where you bought the tire, they should air them up for free, as well as rotate them for free if it has been 5K miles or more…
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Now that the electronic throttle body calibration is complete, the check engine light should turn off after two good trips.