2014 Buick Regal Di Turbo P0302/P0299

Maintenance/Repairs
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1

Buick regal 2014 2L 4cyl Di Turbo.

Ran almost out of gas. Like put put almost out of gas. Filled up, drove maybe 800yd home. Let sot overnight. Tried to go to work in morning and now engine is stuttering, extremely sluggish put put acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, then takes off fine, while idling stuttering, stabilitrak light is lit, (CEL) blinking orange then constant. Used code reader and got P0302(cyl 2 misfire), P0299(Engine Underboosted), and U0401-71(one or more modules onboard the vehicle has received invalid data from the ECM).

I have replaced the spark plugs, filled up with 93 octane+bottle of HEET, still ran cruddy.
Filled up with 93 octane + seafoam with 2:1 foam:fuel ratio for concentrated cleaning.

Alternator is good, battery is brand new.

Any ideas anyone? To broke to take it to mechanic, payday is a week away, and i have to drive back and forth to work so need to get figured out and fixed ASAP please

2

Swap #2 injector with a different one and see if the problem follows the injector.

2 Likes
3

Okay, thank you. Headed back from autozone. Reset codes and worked fine for a few cycles, then started misfiring again. Will let you know if it follows the injector or not.

4

Before you dig in, look up the process to swap them. For a DI setup, it’s a bit more involved than the typical injection system. But if you’re looking to save some $ and do the work yourself, it’s one way to divide and conquer the problem- eliminate the fuel delivery aspect which is somewhat suspect due to the running low recently.

5

Well i have to get the tool to take the injectors out, and break it down to the injectors first, just looked up the process.

6

Best of luck, fingers crossed for you. Hope you find the problem quickly and get it fixed as inexpensively as possible!

1 Like
7

Could bad fuel or water/debris in the fuel be the culprit before i go breaking everything down.
I mean never had a problem out of the car, ran so low didnt know if i was going to make it to gas station or be walking, then bam all this immediately next time starting the car. Its been hot and dry the whole time so not water or moisture on coils i dont believe.

8

Considering this seems to be a direct-injection engine, I’m not sure that’s all that easy to do properly.

afaik, every seal and line you touch on the high pressure side needs to be replaced any time it’s loosened

Depending on how accessible the coils are, it might be easier to swap and/or replace coils

9

Looking it up it seems the injectors are under the manifold

10

Can the ignition coils be removed without removing the intake?

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11

Yes the coils and plugs are on the top easily accessible. I have already replaced the spark plugs, the old ones were blackened and looked soot-covered. Just changed the oil too, no coolant in the oil.

12

And this…

I hate to suggest it but… Blown turbo seals. You’d lose boost and blow oil through the intake and oil-up the plugs causing a misfire.

Pop the turbo cold side outlet hose to the manifold and look for lots of oil inside.

1 Like
13

Turbo cold side outlet hose, going to manifold.
Brb, looking up

14

Inspect for leaks in the intercooler and associated pipes. Something as simple as a loose intercooler hose clamp can cause an air pressure leak and result in an over-rich fuel mixture.

15

I would first swap coils and see if the misfire moves to a different cylinder . . .

and you can also examine if the coil boots look okay, or if they’ve been letting water and/or condensation into the spark plug tube(s)

16

Im lost pn finding the hose, but checking the new plugs i installed, no oil in the plugs

17

Does your device also give you live data?

18

Theres something loose-ish on top on the engine where the coils are. From just looking, if theres not a seal or anything then this could be something. Ill post a picture in a minute.

Ive been running back and forth to autozone, at walmart about to try and find an affordable reader

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17253034264642866605235030836985
172530342646428666052350308369851920Ă—4158 446 KB

And this is what autozone gave me after they ran the codes last.

21

If there’s any possibility either of those isn’t performing up to spec, do the simple tests first, and have your shop do their standard alternator-battery test. My diy’er version is: before the first start of the day, the battery should measure about 12.6 volts, then immediately after starting the engine, 13.5-15.5 volts. If your shop gets different numbers, you are welcome to post them here for more ideas. Your battery might be “new” but not fully charged for example. That can confuse the computers.