Can anyone help? I am baffled. What I mean is I use a multi meter set to ohms and get .04 when I touch the red and black prongs and 0.9 when touch the connectors of the holder with the fuse missing. When I touch the prongs with the fuse plugged in I get no reaction/reading 0L but when the fuse is removed and I test the fuse out of the holder I get.04
Open loop refers to a mode in which the engine control module (PCM) ignores input from the oxygen sensors and uses pre-programmed data to manage fuel delivery, typically occurring when the engine is cold or under certain conditions. This mode can lead to reduced fuel efficiency since it does not adjust based on real-time sensor feedback.
Have you tried measuring for 12 VDC at the connector with the key on?
Tester
Thanks, no have would I do that I am a complete newbie at this.
First, you can’t check ohms on anything that’s powered up, like a circuit or an installed fuse.
Second, open loop has nothing to do with any fuses.
What exactly are you trying to fix?
Might not be set to ohm whatever continuity setting is. I was wondering if the fuses may have something to do with the throttle body, the fuses that I am referencing are 48 and 49 IDK what 49 does but 48 is related to the throttle body.
Set the meter at the 20 DC voltage.
With key on, take the red lead of the meter and put it in one the sockets for the fuse, and the black lead on a ground, like the battery negative post.
There should around 12 volts. If not, put the red lead in the other socket for the fuse. There should be around 12 volts.
Tester
Before anything gets checked, tested, inspected, touched, we need to know:
- What is the car doing or not doing?
- Are there any warning lights or fault codes. If so, which lights and what are the complete fault code numbers and definitions.
The first code to appear was P0420 I tried some solvent I think it was motopower catalytic cleaner where the upstream 02 sensor is and I think I sprayed Seafoam or GDI cleaner into the throttle body. Then I got the additional code p0031, and P0102 (which I cleared after spraying MAF), P0120 and a code about on open loop which I can’t remember off the top of my head. When the car just had the P0420 it was running great not the acceleration is terrible till I push down the last inch on the throttle, also it will stall, and the idling is bad. I looked at the fuse box diagram and it said fuse 48 was related to the throttle body. I checked all of the other fuses and they seemed fine but as I said the fuse from 48/49 test working as does the fuse holder but when I test the fuse in the holder, I get no response.
I have an Astro AI multimeter, and it looks different idk if it has that function.
Normally with fuses there is no need to use a meter to check them. A visual inspection usually shows whether or not the wire inside is broken or not.
None of the codes you list could be caused by a bad fuse.
If you don’t have a way to read codes and live data and are unfamiliar with the basic functions of a voltmeter I think you’ll need more help than you are likely to get here.
In my experience P0420 usually means the catalytic converter needs to be replaced. The last time I had to do that the car seemed to not have any zip or power when a load was applied.
That method doesn’t work so well if your eyesight isn’t so great
and just because the wires inside aren’t broken doesn’t mean everything is okay
We’ve all had plenty of instances where the fuse holder terminals were dirty, so the fuse never had a chance in the first place
Thanks appreciate you.