Vibration on start up, High initial idle RPM.
After driving and warming up, the problem decreases, and the car runs well.
Check engine light on??
What are the codes? possible pending codes?
How high is the initial idle rpm?? Does the vibration go away right after starting the vehicle or decrease after warning up and driving it??
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No engine light. It started when the weather got cold. I have not checked for a code. I suspect a sensor O2 or MAP…
Idle and also out of gear, about 1400 rpm, normal is more like 600.
Vibration much worse at startup, slowly gets better as driven. Almost normal after a highway run.
Has any work been done to it lately, under hood parts replaced??
Look at live data to see if anything looks strange, like ect showing -20f when it is 40f outside at start up, or anything like that, and of course, look for pending codes…
How is the oil level in the engine?
Down half a quart…
Does it seem higher than before you started noticing the vibration?
I’m only 3000 miles since the last oil and Filter change.
Every Fall someone complains about the cold engine idle speed. Sorry, no carburetor adjustments possible.
The elevated idle speed is necessary to heat the catalytic convertor to a temperature hot enough to perform properly.
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We went from 120 degrees to 60 in just a week. But the car has a ten-fold increase in vibration on start-up.
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The engine could be misfiring, esp when cold. Suggest to check for diagnostic codes, both current & pending. Misfiring usually posts a code, but not always, or not always right away. Another idea, If your Nissan is equipped w/an egr valve , could be something wrong w/that. Presuming automatic transmission.
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
How old are those spark plugs?
600 rpm is NOT normal for a cold start up. That’s a “once warmed up” speed. But 1400 is too high. This probably has an electronic throttle body (?) and I would clean it. If it’s not electronic, I’d also clean the idle air control valve - but it won’t have one if the TB is electronic.
In addition to potential cold misfires (which could be there without the computer “deciding” it’s time to turn on the check engine light), those engine mounts are pretty old. A little bit of rough running with marginal mounts makes for vibration.
Yes, I agree. All the rubber is shot on this 2012 relic. The motor mounts are almost flat. The rear shocks are shot, and I’m too old to do it myself and too poor to pay someone to do it. At least I got a year out of it with no problem.
Just a thought… when it is cold out rubber tends to get hard. when it is hot out it becomes softer. It is probably why you feel it more in the cold weather. your motor and transmission mounts are probably the problem.
With all do respect sir, what do you hope to gain from us then if you are unable to do what is suggested for repairs and paying someone to do the work for you is not in the budget??
You basically just told us the vehicle is being neglected, so it could be a number of things all working together to give you these issues… Just trying to understand your version of how this is going to get repaired…
Try topping off the oil, getting it to the correct mark on the dipstick. That could help.
As a note… you can, and should, both check and add to the oil level in between oil changes. Some folks seem to overlook this fact.
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Way too many people.
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