2012 Ford Mustang GT 90k manual for 15k

I am looking at a 2012 Ford Mustang GT premium with a manual with 90k miles and he wants 15k.
18 intake manifold

Pbd tuned by rob shoemaker

Steeda cai

Mbrp ss 1 7/8 long tube headers

Mbrp street exhaust system

Dss 4” aluminum drive shaft

3.31 rear gear

20” amr wheels

Nitto 555 g2 285 rear 265 front tires (new)

Steeda lowering springs

Steeda front and rear sway bars

Koni yellow adjustable shocks/struts

Steeda boss 302 front control arms

Modular motorsports bump steer

Bbk caster camber plates

Jlt catch can

Pedal commander

Roush body kit

Wrapped 3m cosmic blue

Shaker 500 sound system w bluetooth (no nav)Mod list
If I got a pre purchase inspection and the car checks out would this be a good car if all is good for 15k ?

Just like all the other vehicles you ask about it is a used vehicle so who knows . That might be a good price for your area but with all those modifications only you can decide if it is worth that amount of money to you .


New sports tires too? If pre-purchase says “good”, $15K seems like a pretty good price to me. With all the non-oem components, suggest to secure an extra-comprehensive PP inspection, have to pay more, but inspecting that stuff will take extra time, money well spent imo. Might be a good idea to ask your shop do an engine compression test as part of the inspection. If seller won’t allow compression test – which they might not – your mechanic will have to decide by a test drive. Probably an ok method

I’ll add that when buying a used car I pay a lot of attention to the fluid levels and fluid appearance. If a fender is about to fall off, that’s maybe worth a risk. Evap code? No problem. But black engine oil means a definite “no”.

1 Like

Seems like a lot of good add-ons in addition to the car. Many I would do myself and a few I don’t think are worth the money but, hey, there they are.

15K seems like a good deal… but… depending on where you live the LT headers may be an emission inspection problem. Plus you also did not say the it had catalytic converters…also a problem.

Be sure and have the engine, clutch and transmission checked over carefully. With performance mods and 90K, the clutch may very well be ready for a change…and that ain’t cheap.

I’d figure $1800 for a new clutch (and maybe the seller is too!. Put a lightweight flywheel and a stage 2 clutch in, if you must replace it, while you are in there.

1 Like

If it’s want you want, seems like a good deal athough unmodified cars are going for about $12,000.

Personally I’d invest the money only after a serious inspection.

Personally I wouldn’t buy a modified used car. You just don’t know what issues may be hidden or lurking in the distance.

If you just have to have it, though…make sure to have the car inspected by a mechanic before you do the deal.

I’d also insist on a good answer to the following question, from the seller: Why are you selling it?

Good luck.


If the seller has receipts for the parts and labor from a shop installing those mods, it might be worth looking at. If they said they installed everything themselves, I’d be more skeptical of any engine mods.
In my area $15k is good for the car if it was stock. I’d offer $12k and see what they say. If they balk at it, especially if they start listing how much they spent on parts, just look at them and tell them THEY bought the parts and those parts aren’t worth very much on the used market.

Sounds pretty nice. The pedal commander seems redundant, but otherwise the price is nice, and the mileage is more than reasonable for the age of the car. @Mustangman brings up a good point about emissions. If you don’t have to deal with emissions testing, then it’s not a big deal, but if you do, then you’re probably going to run into some issues, even if the tune turns off the rear O2 sensors.