2011 Kia Soul - Loss of acceleration

2011 kia soul- loss acceleration while on highway and now I try to start it and it wont fully turn over. Its like it doesnt ignite. I changed the crankshaft position sensor and still have issue. Any suggestions?

was there any check engine lights on before the loss of power?
Did you check the battery out? are the Battery cable connections clean and tight? did you turn the key and see if you can here the fuel pump turn on? If you dont here it, first check the relay. if thats good the pump might be bad.
why did you change the crank sensor? did you have a code for it?

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No check engine light no warnings at all. I checked battery and it’s all good. I didn’t loose full power everything turns on (lights, hazards, horn etc). It try’s to start just won’t fully turn over. I didn’t have any issues before this either. I was looking up common causes and now I’m wondering if it’s the ignition coil pack

if the starter is not turning over fast then the battery may need to be checked at a autoparts store. they usually will do it for free. just because you have lights does not mean the battery is ok.

if the coil pack was bad you would of gotten a misfire code first. do you here the fuel pump turn on?

Battery was checked. We also did the code reader and no codes pop up. We checked fuses and Fuel pump turns on and we checked for leaks. Honestly my engine is pretty clean. I have only had it for 3 months. The guy before me kept really good care of it inside and out.

maybe I am misunderstanding. what do you mean by not cranking over fully? it could be the starter

In my research the troubleshooting suggested to replace the crankshaft position sensor. As I talked to the people at Napa they recommended that also. I’m a newbie so I am open to suggestions. I was also able to return the part so no money lost quite yet.

I know :grin: texting is so hard compared to verbal. Basically when you go to start it it try’s. It doesn’t click or act sluggish. It just won’t ignite, it won’t fully turn over so I can drive it.

I am not familiar with your car so this has me stumped. it sounds like fuel or a electrical problem. maybe some one else with more knowledge here can help. the only other things you can try is try using the other key fob maybe its not reading this one. but that wouldnt explain the loss of power. sorry I could not help.

Same here. Lol but I appreciate the help. A friend looked at the starter but I will follow up with him today in that.

Have you checked for a broken timing belt?

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To many people people the phrase “it won’t fully turn over” means the engine does not complete at least one full (360 degree) revolution when the starter is engaged.

This would indicate that the starter operation is weak or the engine has physical interference, such as a major mechanical failure.

From your follow-on messages it sounds more like the battery and starter are good, and the engine spins normally with the key turned to “start” – it just doesn’t start and run.

So that leaves the “big three” subsystems – ignition, fuel, or compression. The auto parts store had you replace the crank sensor for the ignition.

@weekend-warrior & @TXdealer are suggesting key fob, fuel delivery and timing belt for fuel and compression.

an issue like this – with no codes – needs a lot of basic subsystem testing.

Fromm what I can tell from the OP’s comments, the starter is cranking the engine ok. OP, I p resume you hear the normal “rrr rrr rrrr” sound with the key in “start”. It just doesn’t catch and run like it should, right?

With no ecm diagnostic codes, the crank position sensor was a reasonable guess, as when that part fails the computer thinks the engine isn’t rotating, so it won’t fire the spark plugs. If your shop can figure out a way to safely determine if one of the spark plugs is firing (or not) during cranking, that would be a place to start. Then at least you’d have something to go on. To solve this problem the first step is to determine if the cause is spark or fuel. It’s usually one or the other.

As mentioned above there’s a slight chance the camshaft has become disconnected from he crankshaft. Broken timing belt/chain etc. That could cause this symptom. Sometimes you can look into the hole where you pour the engine oil to tell if the camshaft is turning or not during cranking. Wear eye protection of course.

Thank you so much everyone. And yes Johnnym is correct about the starting of the vehicle.
So today we did further research and found the spark plugs were a little loose but at the same time my ignition coil pack was not working right. So we are going to get the part and try that and replace the spark plugs just to play it safe.
I will keep you posted

Thank you for keeping us informed.
Make sure you get the exact spark plugs specified for your Kia, and gap them as specified.

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So…. It ended up being the timing belt. At which in this year 2011 it messes with the piston and the engine is shot! I got lucky and it was just the belt and water pump. $500 later car is on the road.


Was this the first time that the timing belt was changed on this 10 year old vehicle?
If so, then it was ~2-3 years overdue.

You got very lucky.

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Sounds like the belt jumped a couple teeth; not enough for a valve-piston collision.

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That’s a very likely scenario, but that still leaves the question of whether this was the first timing belt replacement for a 10 year old vehicle. And, whether it was the first or the second time that the timing belt was replaced…
Were the belt tensioners also replaced, along with the belt and the water pump?