I have a 2011 Ford F250 and sometimes it wont start. It wont even try to start (no click or anything). The battery is fine and according to the local ford dealer (who cant figure out the problem) the starter is fine too. The vehicle has been towed to the dealership 3 times, and they either cant figure it out, or it randomly ends up starting for them and they say that they cant figure it out unless it is not working. I’ve tried starting it in Neutral to no avail. Any ideas on what the problem is/or may be would be greatly appreciated.
Is this a 6.2L Gas or a 6.7L diesel? (Module/Network architecture is dependent on powertrain type) When this occurs, does the instrument cluster display normally? (Any abnormal lights, message center messages, odometer reading dashes, any other abnormal operation noted?)…
The starting system on this truck is a coordinated process between multiple modules(Computers) Possible network communication issue. Bad relay, PATs issue (Passive Antitheft), electrical circuit issues. Typically network issues will have U-codes present in the affected modules. Has the servicing dealer reported any such codes?
Let us know.
How did they determine the starter was not the problem? Starters can go bad in such a way that sometimes they work, and sometimes they don’t.
Did they check for power to the starter during a no-start condition? Because if power is reaching the starter solenoid but the starter isn’t cranking, then the starter IS the problem.
Intermittent problems like this are pretty frustrating for the owner and the service shop. If it was my vehicle I would temporarily install several small lights on the dash and connect them to key points where power is connected to when in the START mode to try and catch the problem area. The trouble is most likely due to a faulty wire connection or intermittent relay contact.
Verify with scan tool that transmission range sensor reads park or neutral during the no crank condition.
Check for anti-theft codes in BCM during the no-crank condition.
Use a different key if you have one and see if problem goes away.
If it always cranks for the dealership, then yes, they probably won’t be able to figure it out until they have it in the shop when it won’t crank. But if they’ve had it when it doesn’t, and can’t narrow down the cause then, maybe look for another place to help you. Diagnosing, or at least narrowing down a “No-Crank” is something any competent shop should be able to do with ease. They may be putting their most inexperienced staff member on it for some reason.
My DIY’er method on No-Crank is to measure the voltages on both terminals of the starter motor during attempted cranking, measuring terminal to case. If either is below 10.5 volts I work backward from the starter to find out why.
check under the driver side kick panel on floor …look for two small white/blue wires that feed into one larger w/b wire check for broken wire …also there are two small white wires that feed into one larger white wire check for broken wire…these wires go to your communication and if broken truck will not start …if those are ok go under truck look at cab mounts…there is a wire loom that gets crushed on driver side frame if crushed check for broken wires and remove wire loom away from frame replace cab mounts
The person that asked this question 3 years ago has never returned.
jgree142 why did you answer this post? Where did you find it?