The Multi Function Display (fuel, clock outside temp) in my 2010 Subaru Outback has suddenly gone dark. At the same time key remote will not lock/unlock vehicle. Thoughts?
I would look in the owners manual for clues. Maybe the one warns you of the other. Maybe on same fuse, which has blown?
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Ask your shop to do a basic battery/alternator test. If you have a volt meter you might could diy. Before the first start of the day the battery should measure about 12.6 volts. Immediately after starting the engine, 13.5 - 15.5 volts.
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It appears that the culprit for the dead remote and MFD is Fuse #34 in the engine compartment. Others who have experienced this have had the replacement fuse blow within minutes so identifying the cause of the blown fuse will be the key, will be diving further into the diagnostics today. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
I see reference to fuse 34 in two locations. MB-34 controls the horn switch and the “body integrated unit” (which I presume means the body module). FB-34 controls the airbag CM.
I’m guessing MB means “main block” and is in the engine compartment. FB means “fuse block” and is inside the cabin near the driver’s left knee. If so the engine compartment fuse you noticed is blown is MB-34. Assuming that’s the case, are you noticing any problems with the horn? Any horn or body control module diagnostic codes? You might try removing the horn relay as a test, see if that prevents the fuse from blowing. One idea, the horn switch is probably routed through the clockspring gadget that allows wires to connect to the steering wheel. That clockspring gadget isn’t an uncommon failure item as reported here (use the forum seach feature to see what other posters have to say). If the problem isn’t the horn you’ll probably need to get the help of a shop who has a scan tool capable of communicating w/the body control module. Best of luck.
The fuse with the issue is 34 in the engine block. Will test horn in the morning. Are you saying that a problem with the horn relay will disable other functions “downstream”?
The horn relay shares the same fuse as the body control module from what I can see. So it seems like it is possible if the horn relay blows that fuse, then the body control module won’t work, which could cause the display not to work. Just a speculation is all. Take a look around the horns at the front of the car. There’s two of them. Maybe you got in a fender bender at some point and now one of them is shorted out.
The horn works when I press it. Does that necessarily mean the horn relay is OK? Or could it still be causing fuse 34 to blow?
If the horn works, and power needs to be provided by fuse 34 in order for that to happen, then that fuse must be okay and you need to check for another circuit that has lost power. If you don’t have a wiring diagram available to help guide your search for the trouble, I suggest you at least use a test light probe and verify all the fuses under the hood and dash panels are good. If they are okay then you most likely have a problem within the wiring somewhere for those circuits that are not working.
There’s not much chance of a problem w/the horn relay. If the horn circuit is causing the fuse to blow, suspect a wire between the horn relay and the horn itself is shorting out, or, less likely, a problem in the steering wheel area for the horn button. It’s quite likely this has nothing to do w/the horn, but instead a problem with the body control module. . But since the horn is easy to check, good place to start looking. I presume you’ve replace fuse 34 and the MFD is now working. Whatever caused it, the problem might now be solved. If not, next time the MFD stops working, test the horn then.
My MFD saga continues. Done so far
- swapped out Fuse 34 with another 10 amp fuse and it blew
- tested horn, no issue there
- on advice of my local general mechanic took it to Subaru dealer who informed me that the Body Control Panel was faulty and would need to be replaced to the tune of $568 (ouch)
- after Subaru replaced the panel, surprise! the problem persisted and they will be continuing to try to figure out where there is an electrical issue that is shorting out the fuse.
Not impressed. Monday will be Day 4 in the Subaru shop.
Does fuse 34 blow immediately when you plug it in?
If so, here’s what you can do . . .
Hook up a sealed beam, in place of fuse 34
If it’s very bright, that means a short is present right at that moment
Get out your wiring diagram and get to work. Start unplugging things, one at a time, in a systematic manner, until the sealed beam turns off. Then you’ve found the culprit. Note that it could also be a wire that is shorted to ground
Obviously only unplug components in the affected circuit. On the page that has fuse 34 at the top, look what’s on the circuit. Don’t unplug things that are on different circuits. That will only frustrate you and waste more time.
Does the fuse still blow when the multifunction display is unplugged?
While the owners manual shows fuse # 34 for the integrated body module the wiring diagram that I am looking at lists fuse # 10 for the integrated body module, keyless entry module, interior lights and puddle lights.
If one of the outside mirrors is damaged that should be looked at first (puddle lights).
Next I would suspect one of the vanity mirror lights could be shorted, the wiring in the visors can break or become chaffed from moving the visor up, down, left, right and short blowing the fuse.
Can’t check, Subaru has car at this time.
Can you explain this comment about puddle lights vs outside mirrors? I just remebered we did some serious off-roading last weekend. No issues with mirrors but maybe did scrape undercarriage once or twice…
If one of the outside mirrors is damaged that should be looked at first (puddle lights).
Interesting, 34 is the one that is blown.
Sorry, no idea what that refers to.