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2010 Honda Pilot Check Engine Light

My 2010 Honda Pilot Check Engine Light recently came on when the truck was pulled to a stop. The truck was shaking, making a thumping noise, and felt as though it was going to stall. I drove it in this condition for about 1/4 mile, (drove to a safe turn off) then turned it off and restarted. The shaking and funny idling stopped and the check engine light turned off. I took it to the dealer the next day and they found nothing. They couldn’t reproduce the problem and the computer showed no problems. Apparently without proof they can’t fix the problem.

Since the first time, the following has happened no less then 3 times in 2 weeks, when at a stop the truck will start shaking, idling funny and feels like it is about to stall, but no check engine light. When the gas is applied the truck sputters and then will drive as normal. Also when driving it feels as thought the truck doesn’t want to go when accelerating.

Can anyone give me any advice or insight, so I can have the problem fixed?

Bring it back to the dealer have them check for history codes. These are codes that are stored in the computer after the Check Engine light turns off.


I was told the computer must have earased itself when I turned the truck off and restarted it. The dealership said the history was blank, no codes reported.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes don’t erase themselves from the computer just by turning the ignition switch off and restarting the engine on an OBDII system. If that were happening, then there must be something wrong with the OBDII computer.


I said the same thing the the dealership rep said the computer would show error codes for the computer. Can a faulty computer cause the problems I’m having (engine misfiring or timimg issues with the Eco drive)

Well, and you just hit the problem with dealership mechanics right there. If a computer isn’t telling them what’s wrong, they’re oftentimes at a complete loss.

The next time it happens, drive it to the closest Honda dealership without shutting the car off. Let them see that it’s idling weird. Then tell them to fix it, even if they have to replace everything on the car but the radio knob. Don’t take the vehicle back until they have fixed it and they can tell you what they did.

Well, you’re having a drivabilty issue with the vehicle, and misfire would cause the Check Engine light to flash in most cases or at least come on steady. So you’ve had the Check Engine light come on and go off. No history codes and there should be. So if there are no codes present for the apparent problem, the computer may have failed where it doesn’t turn the Check Engine light on, or store a code for a faulty computer.

Sort of a catch 22 situation.


We have 2 honda dealers in the area, would it be wise to go to a differant dealer (where the car wasn’t purchased). Have them check the truck over. Are there any ways to test the computer?
I have had several cars, without computers, discussed any issues with mechanics and the problems were fixed. I never had to deal with the answer “The computer isn’t showing a problem; therefore, there isn’t one.”

I forgot to mention, when the check engine light came on it flashed about 5 times and then stayed on until I turned to engine off and then back on again.

You can take the car to any Honda Dealer.

If its more convenient, the next time it happens, and there’s one close by, an Auto Zone, Advance Autoparts, Checker, or similar type of auto parts store should be able to hook up a computer to the car, and give you a reading of what the trouble codes are next time it happens, for free.

You can share that info with us, and take it to your dealer, and let them deal with it from there, while we give you our opinions on what should be looked at.


Thank you! I will be sure to do this.

The check engine light came on again, I went to Advanced Auto Parts and got the Error Code - P0301
Misfire Cylinder 1.

The check engine light came on again, I went to Advanced Auto Parts and got the Error Code - P0301
Misfire Cylinder 1.

Several possibilities could be, starting with the easiest.
Spark plug, coil, fuel injector, injector wire harness connector, etc.

I know this is a 2010 model but one should never rule out the possibility of tight valve lash on a mechanical lifter engine. It’s quite possible that if the lash were borderline tight on a valve on that particular cylinder a misfire will exist and it can even be a come and go thing.
This would depend on engine heat, just how tight the valve in question is, etc.

Most new cars won’t suffer a problem like this but they are assembled by human beings and there will always be a few slipping through the cracks.
Tight valve lash can cause cylinder head damage, especially if it’s an exhaust valve, and this can occur pretty quickly.

If nothing surfaces about a spark plug fault, etc. then I believe if the car were mine I’d want to run a compression check on that one cylinder at a minimum; just to be safe.
If, and I mean IF, a lash problem exists then odds are adjusting it at this point would be a stopgap measure and the valve in question will have a comparatively short life. (esp. exhaust valves)

Not trying to be depressing at all here. Just pointing out a plausible possibility and one that is often overlooked even by mechanics.

It’s a brand new vehicle.Take it back to the dealer and tell them keep it until it’s fixed, they won’t want to spend any time on it since it will be warranty work. But thats their problem. If possible go to the dealer while it is running bad. Make sure you get some kind of record that you took it to the dealer, and the symptoms, even if they do nothing, just in case the same problem occurs out of warranty you can prove it started while still in warranty.

Not sure if anyone is getting notices about this old thread…but the same thing just happened to me yesterday and in my searches as to why–since the dealer cant figure it out, even though it was still acting up for them–led me here. Was wondering if there was an outcome or answer to this story. Thanks!