2010 Equinox P0443

Hey yall. I hope somebody can help me out here. I have a 2010 Chevy Equinox LS. I had a few codes being thrown so I replaced both 02 sensors, the MAF sensor, and the purge solenoid. Now it’s worse than ever and my check engine light is back on with the P0443 code only. (purge solenoid valve control circuit). When a cold start, shifting into drive it sputters and dies. If I can get on the gas pretty quick I can stop it from dying. Also, when accelerating, it’ll stall sometimes and it takes a few tries to get it to go if that makes sense. Where do I go from here? If I can do it myself without spending 3x as much at a mechanics that’d be great. Any advice?

There may be a problem with the vapor canister purge valve.


He said he replaced the purge solenoid. Is that not the same thing as the purge valve?

Same part on my 05 Sierra, but may not be the case here. FWIW, when the purge valve solenoid failed open on my truck, I didn’t have any issues other than the code / engine light. The code I got was for a gross evap leak.

Cleaning the throttle body might help - sounds like it has a low idle.

If codes were reset, are any codes showing now?

Before you do anything, make sure the gas cap is on and sealed tightly. A bad gas cap can throw this code. It’ll usually be accompanied by other codes as well, such P0455.
P0443 - Meaning, Causes, Symptoms, & Fixes - FIXD Best OBD2 Scanner (fixdapp.com)

one more thing , make sure you dont have any leaks in the hose to the purge valve.

That is the code I got. Along with a “tighten gas cap” message. I replaced the gas cap (pretty cheap and worth a try), did some testing, then determined the purge valve was open whether it received voltage or not. Then replaced it and all is well.

PS, get the oem part. Or at least avoid the Autozone Duralast brand for this part. Duralast part failed in a couple of weeks, had to replace it.

Codes were reset. New code thrown only P0443. Purge solenoid was replaced. Not the gas cap. Could the new solenoid be faulty?

I would check the wiring to the purge valve, especially the terminals in the connector the valve plugs in to.

Purge valve itself is pretty easy to test, though. 12 volts to the valve, it should be open and you should be able to blow through it. No voltage to the valve, it should be closed and you should be unable to blow through it. Or vice versa, I don’t remember for certain. The valve on my truck was easily accessible. I removed it, and jumpered wires from the negative battery terminal to one of the purge valve’s terminals, positive battery terminal to the other terminal of the purge valve. You should be able to hear and fill a slight “click” when it gets 12 volts power applied to it. You still need to blow through it to make sure it’s not obstructed, hung open, etc.

I think if the valve is failed open, you’ll get a slight vacuum leak. Failed closed, I don’t see how it would be a problem except for emissions. One easy test would be to remove the hose from the valve and cap off the valve and plug the hose. That would close it off were it failed open and prevent any sort of vacuum leak. If you’ve still got a rough idle, you probably have another issue. I know, it’s kind of a shadetree/hack test. But, it should work as a test. I wouldn’t drive around permanently with it sealed off.