2008 Hyundai Tiburon SE Clutch Replacement

Hi guys!

The meat of my issue:
So I am pretty sure I need a clutch replacement and have a question about that; below in additional information section I discuss why and ask for confirmation in more detail… but assuming I do need a clutch replacement, I need some advice of an experienced expert. So here is the deal. The dealer quoted $2100 to replace the clutch with factory original parts, saying the parts alone are around $1600, $1100 for the flywheel alone for some reason. I find it very odd that the dealer refuses to give me the part numbers, relying on quick hand written quotes… what do you think? At the same time I go to this link and filter on a 2008 Hyundai tiburon SE: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?Ntt=Clutch+Kit. It gives me 11 options ranging from $150 to $700.

The Question:
I have no idea what to do. Are the highest priced aftermarket clutches better than the factory clutch? I mean, they seem to be pretty fancy racing gear, so maybe if I buy the best aftermarket I’ll end up with something better than the factory clutch but cheaper? I want something long lived, high quality and most importantly DOES NOT impart other problems. I’ve heard horror stories about after market parts, even fancy ones for racing that the vendor confirmed correct selection… I have to avoid that situation, I want this to be the last repair related to the clutch (110K miles on the car).

More Background:
For the last 50k miles, the clutch has always grabbed low… but it wasn’t an issue, I actually liked it that way. My dad noticed it and recommended I get a clutch adjustment but I never did. About 1 month ago the clutch started acking up and quickly it got bad. What happened, was that the clutch starting grabbing VERY low, lower than the petal could actually go. I found that pumping the clutch fixed the issue for each shift. I took it into the dealer and requested a clutch adjustment, they said you can’t adjust this clutch because it was hydrolic. They gave it a test drive and said it was either the hydrolics or the clutch… looking at the clutch fluid, it was black indicating a disintegrated seal in one of the hydrolic values. So I got the master/slave valves replaced for $500. It correct the major issue, the car couldn’t be driven well before, for about 2 weeks but I did notice gears would stick a little after I got the car back. It got progressively worse over those 2 weeks and topped out, no change after that. So it’s been about a month since I had the hydrolics replaced and here is what the car is currently doing: Every morning I back out of the driveway and it gets stuck in reverse; I have to be very careful and force it out. Similar issue in first as well. Also, sometime I press the clutch but I can’t put the shifter into first… if I stomp it a few times it corrects the issue for a moment. I took it again to the deal and they say I should replace the clutch… but $2200 on a car with 110K miles isn’t good and I want something that will last another 110K miles without causing additional issues.


your car has value. like all cars. if you had no issues you would sell it for market value. it needs a 2200 clutch, so will you deduct that from price? will you fix it and sell it for more money? next buyer might not care if it has new clutch. they want a car with a good clutch. they might even think you abused car since most clutches do not wear out at 110k. it is a hyundai. not a honda. you got it since it was cheaper. and it broke down.

Highly off topic, I never said I intended to sell it. I don’t even think Honda makes true thoroughbred sports cars any more, so I’m not sure why your suggesting Honda or dissing Hyundai.

I have to disagree with @Stoveguy that a clutch do not wear out in 110,000 miles. That all depends on how the driver treats the clutch.

First, because you still have to pump the pedal to get the clutch to release, I’d take it back to the place that installed the new hydrolic’s and have them bleed the system. It sounds like you could have air in the line or cylinder.

Second find a good independent shop and have them inspect the clutch plate. You will find a vast difference in the prices from a dealer service department to an inde shop. There are a few companies out there that make high quality clutch packages, so just go with a well rated manufacturer.


I agree Yosemite. In fact, from what I understand due to the slave cylinder and duel mass configuration on this car, the clutch wears out sooner than most but gains smoother drive-ability. I’ve read that removing the diaphragm and spring in the slave cylinder will make it act like a normal clutch and will reduce wear, but I could be misstating this and I don’t know if I trust it.

Regarding inspecting the clutch plate, the dealer wouldn’t put it on a lift… I’ve taken it to 3 other places, no one wants to put it on a lift so I can see the issue… clutches have inspection windows right? They all just drive it a minute and tell me to replace the clutch.

Can you recommend a good MFR? Even then I’m scared I’m not going to buy the right thing or the best thing, the thing that will make me not have to deal with this again for another 110K miles.

Here’s a long discussion of this unique clutch system:

If the car were mine I would use the aftermarket clutch assembly and not worry one moment about it. Properly done, the clutch job should last as long as any factory assembly. That’s omitting the driver input part of the equation…

For what it’s worth, the factory clutches are aftermarket. Car makers sub out the majority of parts they use including clutch assemblies. It could well be that the clutch assembly sold over the dealer counter is the same one being sold at the aftermarket parts store right around the corner.
Different manufacturing stamp marks, different box, all one and the same.

Kind of like at the grocery store.

Their house brand of Chicken soup is made by campbells. They just didn’t get all the feathers off first…adds to the flavor!!!

Rhinopac Clutch Kit, Centerforce, or Spicer Clutch kits are considered some of the best.
This is not a race car…though you may driver it like one. don’t go overboard on some $700 clutch kit, find one mid priced and it should be more than enough.


There’s nothing unusual about a clutch of any kind wearing out at 110K miles. Sure some last longer, some last only 60K, but I don’t see anything out of the ordinary with yours worn out at 110K.

There’s no way to inspect a clutch without removing the transmission and clutch assy. I mean if it’s totally fried and the clutch material is flying out of the housing like witch hair you can see it’s gone, but by that point the car won’t even move anymore.

Aftermarket parts should be fine, but don’t use the conversion kits that replace the dual-mass flywheel with a conventional solid one. You’ll never be happy with the way the clutch feels.
Ask your friends, neighbors, coworkers for the name of a local reputable independent shop.

It’s possible it won’t be necessary to replace the flywheel. Once the transmission’s out a visual inspection will decide. Don’t suffer the expense of replacing the flywheel just b/c it is on the list of clutch-kit parts the shop tech gave you.

If the clutch has been slipping badly then it’s quite likely the flywheel will have to be replaced or surfaced. Any warpage at all or even one burn mark on the surface can cause a new clutch to chatter if that problem is not cured before the new clutch installation.

Chattering generally means a shorter lifespan of the new clutch. Some flywheels require a bit more thought than others when it comes to resurfacing them.

The Hyundai dual mass flywheels have been a trouble area for Hyundai. They are expensive and cannot be resurfaced.

Thanks for the comments guys. I’m starting to think I may not need a new flywheel. The clutch really doesn’t slip at all, the issue now is that it doesn’t disengage or engage correctly. It gets stuck in first and 6th and sometimes I can’t put it into gear without stomping the pedal a few times. Note that I recently had the master/slave cylinders replaced and it fixed it for a week or so. I’ve learned a lot about this system in the last few days, and I’m starting to think these mechanics, every one, are trying to sell me a bunch of crap I don’t need. More specifically, I think perhaps I either have air in the line or that the spring isn’t working so great, I can’t imagine this issue being related to the pressure place or flywheel.

The problem could be hydraulic, like air in the system or the slave or master not functioning properly. The problem could also be in the clutch itself, one of the damper springs or diaphragm fingers on the pressure plate could be loose or broken causing the clutch not to release properly.

At any rate, the problem can’t be properly diagnosed with just a drive around the lot and based on how the pedal feels. I’d find a good independent shop and pay them the $50-#100 for a test drive, system inspection/bleeding and diagnosis before just replacing anything.

A skillful machine shop can resurface a dual-mass flywheel as long as it’s not damaged. I have one that has done them from Audis up to Ford diesel trucks.

Stomping on the pedal to get the clutch to work still sounds to me like you have air in the hydraulics. Did you take the car back to have them rebleed the system as I mentioned the other day???

If you put in a new clutch and the system is not bled , the new clutch will act the same.


Clutches (and the related items to the clutch) are HIGHLY dependent on use, mostly driver habits and where the vehicle is driven. A manual transmission vehicle used in the city will require clutch service more frequently than one driven mostly on the highway. The clutch and related parts to my old '89 Accord outlasted the body, driven ti 585,000 miles before retirement. I’ll admit to being a PIA when it comes to my cars, but I can’t see driving anything “badly”, even a rental. That being said, 110,000 on your Hyundai requiring a clutch isn’t uncommon. I would go to an independent shop, ask them to give you a written estimate (parts & labor) and compare prices. The mechanic will make $$ on the parts too, so don’t be upset, that’s how it goes. I did a clutch and related parts on my 356 for less than $600, but that was me. Good luck, happy motoring! Rocketman

“one of the damper springs or diaphragm fingers on the pressure plate could be loose or broken causing the clutch not to release properly.”
-If it is a clutch problem, I agree that’s probably the issue I am feeling. Everyone is telling me I should replace the flywheel as well if they end up opening up the housing, but factory dual mass flywheel is $1100, and the aftermarket conventional is only a little cheaper.

“A skillful machine shop can resurface a dual-mass flywheel as long as it’s not damaged.”
-People have told me you can’t machine a dual mass flywheel… but I agree I don’t see why not. I was a machinist apprentice for a while and I know the flywheel can be disassembled.

-I just dropped the car off at the place that replaced the hydrolic cylinders, hopefully they’ll bleed it and it will be fixed. Update tomorrow.

I have to respectfully disagree with the premise that a dual mass flywheel can’t be machined.
The guy who runs the local auto machine shop I use is big into performance Corvettes and machines dual mass flywheels.

There’s even a YouTube video of a guy machining a dual mass and accompanying comments from him about the can’t machine them theory.

Thanks guys, two of you said the dual mass flywheel can be machined… Thank you, you saved me $1100… I’m not buying a new flywheel. God these mechanics!

Thanks OK and asemaster about machining DMFs. I had a machine shop tell me they machine solid flywheels but cannot machine DMFs. Thank you for correcting me.

In my experience and in talking with Hyundai mechanics, Hyundai has had some DMF problems with the internal springs malfunctioning leading to clutches not fully releasing.