No. Cars aren’t magic. The car doesn’t know it had an oil change unless you tell it. You can navigate with your steering wheel buttons to find the remaining oil life and reset it to 100% when you change the oil.
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If a shop has been doing your oil changes for you, then they simply didn’t reset the light correctly… Shop normally reset the light when on, but if yours was not on when serviced then they may have simply forgot, or thought someone else already reset it…
If you look closely at GM’s maintenance recommendations, it surely states both an elapsed time factor, as well as an odometer mileage factor, with a “whichever comes first” proviso. The vehicle mfr’s advice is what you should follow, instead of what the oil mfr recommends.
“Light driving” is actually the worst type of driving that you can subject an engine to–if by “light driving” you mean just doing local driving over short distances. On the other hand, if you accumulate those miles by driving only occasionally–and on the highway–then longer oil change intervals might be okay.
Exactly how do you accumulate those 3k miles per year?
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It would be good to call the shop, tell them who you are, when they changed the oil . . . and that they forgot to reset the service reminder
They deserve to know they forgot to do something, so that they can hopefully learn from their mistake
But be nice about it 
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Another update…
So I found an AMMCO transmission shop and took my car there.
The transmission cooling lines were bad, so I gave them the go-ahead and for repair.
I picked up my car friday and they told me to take it back for any issues.
Well…my car is leaking oil and transmission fluid. More transmission than oil. So, back it goes to the shop tomorrow.
Because I work from home. So I don’t really go anywhere other than places I need to go to etc. I guess remote work has made me into an occasional driver rather than a daily when I had my old job.
Big mistake.
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+1
I hope for the OP’s sake that their usually-poor workmanship is “okay”.
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Suggest to take them up on their offer.
New update. So after I got the transmission lines fixed, I still had a leak which was the pan that needed replacement. Since then no leaks. The car has been working ok. I’ve given it an oil change too.
I do have a new problem but it maybe something I missed. So the rear windshield wiper stopped working. I replaced the motor and then it worked fine. Last week, the wiper only went up halfway and I checked it. Loose bolt. Tightened it and now, it no longer works. But another new motor doesn’t even work at all. Maybe I had bad luck and got a bad one? I checked the fuses and continuity with the cables and nothing seems off. I am unsure if I missed something. Any help?
check for broken wires inside the rubber boot at the liftgate hinge. bend the wires as you move up them. sometimes they can get broken inside and the casing looks ok.
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I checked the boot and did not notice any breaks. I checked all of the fuses and no blown ones. I checked the connector itself that goes unto the motor and one pin had -06 reading. I don’t know what that meant. I even went and bought another motor just to make sure I didn’t get a defective one and it didn’t work. What else can I do to see what is the issue?
There is a liftgate control module that controls the liftgate’s various functions, such as the rear wiper, tailgate lock/unlock, and license plate lights. I believe it is located under the driver’s side rear seat. It might be there is a problem there. but replacing it with a new one would need to be reprogrammed at the dealer.
Pretty sure it’s in the rear liftgate behind the trim panels but could be wrong.
Here’s the schematics for an SS but I do not believe they are different for the base models:
Refer to TT’s diagram below. First step, does pin C measure battery voltage (about 12.6 volts)?
Is this for the black module next to the rear motor? that’s what is there after removing the trim panels.
There is also a fuse box under the seat behind driver’s side and nothing came about. The fuse that was for rear wiper was too tall for the fuse tester my friend had. But we put another fuse there and got nothing.
Check my post above. As for the read out, I reached out to my friend to double check. But I think we did.
Also, if I were to get another module and get it used. Would it still need reprogramming? Although I am unsure that could be the case. I also read somewhere that disconnecting the battery for awhile might reset everything as well
Yes.
You can try a few things to gain some confidence in the LGM. Does your key FOB unlock the rear gate? If you leave the gate open and put the truck in drive, do you get a chime alarm indicating the liftgate is open? If so, the module is communicating with the BCM.
Then, it’s a matter of using a DVM to measure the voltage levels at the wiper motor when it is enabled and set to run.
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I will try this later. I had unplugged the battery from the car to see if everything would reset and after a day, no dice. But, I will try this later. I do have some time before I can return the spare motor wipers I have bought before I kinda give up. I mean I could also buy the black box as well used because I’d spend a fortune having it programmed at the dealer I think.
So I tried your suggestion and the car did not chime when the gate was open and I put the car in drive. Where do I go from here?