I am unsure as I never saw the process of a rack being installed in front of me. I did see installs on youtube, but again, they used the proper screws. But I don’t want to drive myself crazy as to how and why the rack got loose.
The DM said take it in and get reimbursed that’s it. I guess he is allowing it due to my situation here. Either way, I am happy that I have my car on the road again.
3 Likes
Update to this…
I did get the reimbursement for the part. I have that behind me.
BUT, with new rack installed, I am again leaking fluid. Good thing I have the warranty from the garage but this issue is becoming rather annoying. I don’t know if it’s because of the garage’s choice of rack and pinion. I noticed they sourced it from Advance Auto Parts.
1 Like
Good to hear you got reimbursed.
These trucks are notorious for lines rusting- both brake and steering. Before condemning the new rack, better find out where it’s actually leaking or have you established that already? Considering how much they have been manipulated, it wouldn’t surprise me…
1 Like
Lines were replaced 2 years ago.
I will find out tomorrow when I take the car to the garage. But, it is leaking from the same spot which is on the right side close to the middle. I drove around today and noticed spots underneath the car where ever I parked.
Concur, a lot of steering stuff has been replaced or messed with. Probably the most common power steering fluid leak site is the high pressure hose, check for signs of leaks on the connectors at both ends. Next in line is the power steering pump itself, usually the main shaft seal. So even though it is a new one, double check there too. If the leak is coming from the rack itself, usually it would from one of the ends that goes to the tie rod, leak accumulating under a rubber boot. Hopefully that isn’t the problem, b/c fixing that will probably require the rack be removed again.
It is a good chance with all the power steering pumps replaced that a seal was damaged or worn out from being R&R’d so many times…
So I got the car checked out today and it’s not the power steering at all. It’s the transmission cooling line that is leaking. Another problem 
I doubt there is a temp fix for that right? At least it isn’t the power steering as I originally thought
Did you get an estimate on it??
You have multiple hard fluid lines and connectors and maybe some rubber in there…
I would use a shop that has experience replacing these lines such as a trans shop, or a good indy shop…
TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER (lines) PIPES - R&R
Application Labor Times
Operation
Rear, At Transmission, One, w/Skid Plate = 2.1 hours labor
Rear, At Transmission, One, w/o Skid Plate = 1.9 hours labor
Rear, At Transmission, Both, w/Skid Plate = 2.3 hours labor
Rear, At Transmission, Both, w/o Skid Plate = 2.1 hours labor
Front, At Radiator, Both = 0.9 hours labor
Front, At Radiator, One = 0.7 hours labor
Note: Labor items can be added to an estimate on the Estimate detail page.
RockAuto’s prices WILL NOT reflect a shops pricing, a shops WILL be much higher…
EDIT: Both links should take you straight to the parts now…
Depends on where it is leaking.
I would guess the answer is no.
These lines, too, can rust through.
Repairpal estimates replacement at close to $500 parts and labor.
Have them replace the transmission filter while they are at it.
That will cost an additional $300.
Nope. The good news is the parts are relatively inexpensive- replace all of them at once because the labor to do one is almost the same as all 4. The trouble is accessing the fittings on the side of the trans- small hands? Helps a lot.
For a $30 part?
Cooling line replacement requires dropping the pan, correct?
Additional labor charge should be minimal.
No, it doesn’t. Replacing the cooler lines does not require draining any fluid or opening up the pan.
Add another hour or labor, $50 for a filter, fluid, and you’re at $300.
Thank you, thought lines were connected internally at the transmission.
You have a connector such as this at the transmission as well as one like it but different style at the cooler (rad) … A quick connecter…
Then the line will look something like this that goes into it… …
free advice here: Get a pre-purchase inspection on any vehicle you think about buying. And don’t use the rack and pinion mechanic to do this. Plan on paying for the inspection, but it will be worth it. No disrespect here, but it seems that you do not trust mechanics, and don’t have the knowledge to do the work yourself. With that in mind, and as was said somewhere up higher: ask friends, co workers, family who they use for vehicle maintenance and repairs and build a working relationship with a mechanic. Your car (and your wallet,) will thank you later.
while I will agree that this mechanic was in over his head- you mentioned that he did ask if you got the right part and even told you that he was having trouble installing the new rack and pinion. With that- I feel that you are responsible for all further repairs since you told him to install what ended up being the wrong part that you supplied.
If he had supplied the parts himself, then he would be responsible for subsequent repairs to make that first repair right.
Customer supplied parts should come with zero warranty- parts or labor. I don’t know where you got it, what research you did, or anything.
1 Like
For the leaks, there is a leak in the front quite possibly right at the connection to the radiator. The 2nd leak is happening right near the coupler near the transmission fluid tank. The transmission filter was changed 2 years ago along with fresh Dex6 fluid. I am no longer in contact with the mechanic who did the job in the first place. But, he did mess up as he went to Home Depot and tried to use bolts from there and work on this thing.
I felt he should have stopped and allowed me to swap the rack or something but chose to put it anyway. Regardless, that is behind me. It is what it is. I have been taking my car to Firestone and they have been checking it out. What I do know is the leaks seem to be somewhat slow. I believe the leak in the front is slightly more than in the middle.
I was not quoted for the line work. I did requested but I am unsure as to why I was not given a quote.
If you have the original radiator, this seems like a good opportunity to install a new one as part of the job. Less chance of a leak w/new, clean radiator connections for the cooling lines. Modern car aluminum radiators don’t seem to last as long as copper radiators from days of yore. My 50 year old truck still has its original copper radiator, but I’ve had to replace my 30 year old Corolla’s aluminum/plastic radiator already. Another benefit to replacing the radiator now, if the transmission cooling line inside the radiator springs a leak, you’ll be looking at a very big invoice.