Low idle, stalling after driving awhile. after stalling won’t start for 20-30 mins. drives good when going down the road only dies when coming to a stop after driving awhile. worse on hot days
You didn’t ask a question but I will assume you’d like to know why this is happening.
Could be lots of things. You can help narrow it down by telling us; Is the check engine light on? What are the codes? What engine does this have? Turbo or non? Miles on the engine? Do you want to work on this problem yourself - make sure you post answers to everything I asked.
Or are you going to take it somewhere to be fixed? If you are, why did you post this?
Thanks for the reply I typed a lot more information but it didn’t go on the post for some reason.
There are no codes I brought it to Subaru and they couldn’t find the problem it only happens after it gets hot like after driving on the interstate for awhile. It’s a Subaru Forester x 2.5 non turbo has 195000 miles. I do want to try to do the work myself. It drives great only when I come to a stop sign/light does it die. Also can keep it running if I put in neutral and rev up. Once it starts acting up it hesitates when starting from a stop.
Have someone try cleaning the electronic throttle body.
Agree with @tester. Clean throttle body. Replace it if that doesn’t work.
Ok will do I will get a new gasket just in case it breaks. Thanks I’ll let you know how that goes. I did clean it the best I could without taking it off. It did idle a little better after I did so I will take it off and clean throughly.
Wiggle and turn the throttle shaft a bit, too, to check its condition. 195K on a part that moves constantly when you drive could very well be worn out and sticking.
If you are going to clean make sure you reset the PCM so it knows it has a clean throttle body and not trying to adjust for the dirty throttle body .
It’s interesting that the stalling symptom is worse on hot days. What you got going for you is that sometimes it won’t start for 30 minutes after it stalls. I presume by this you mean it cranks ok, but wont’ start and run. That time is a great opportunity to test if the reason for the cranks but won’t start is fuel or spark. Either check for a visible spark at a spark plug (using a spare plug) or spray starter fluid into the air intake. One you’ve determined spark vs fuel the remaining diagnosis job will be much easier.