So you’ve removed the camshafts, and now trying to remove the valve springs? Or are you just trying to compress the springs w/out removing them? Like to change a shim? If you have the camshafts removed, I’d guess you could make your own tool and have it in use possibly faster than trying to buy one. Another question, since they aren’t hydraulic lifters, why do you need to replace them or swap them around to adjust the valve clearances? Couldn’t you just change the shims? Or does your engine not use shims to adjust the valve clearance?
I’ve actually already started pulling together pieces of scrap metal in my garage and thought about getting to that attic for a welder, when @Nevada_545 and @db4690 brought this little gem (I love google’s “find this picture on the web”!):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M36DXG1/ref=psdc_15709001_t2_B009GLIOSE
I’m sold, ordering one.
On some vehicles, if you need to correct the valve lash, you replace the entire lifter with one that is the size you need . . . some Fords are like this, as well, for example
It’s clearly a reverse engineered tool . . . looks like a chinese copy of the schley tool
Whatever . . . at that low price, if it gets the job done and breaks immediately afterwards, it will have been worth every penny
Kind of like harbor freight tools . . . they’re cheap, may not last, but maybe you only need it once
Thank for the info db4690, good to know.
yep, for DIY guy it may be worth its price, as it is unlikely to be used more than a handful of times, but for a pro I would definitely use something better
tool will arrive only early May, so I’m cleaning other things around and ordering parts, by thins point I’ve measured valves and know lifters to be ordered
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today I received the tool and I was able to get 4 of the valves removed, seal replaced and then assembled these back
I’m doing the intake side on one head for now (since otehr side needs repositioning), so 2 cylinders, intake side are done
the tool is fairly good quality, for $28 it is probably almost golden,
on the “glass is half empty” side, the handle could be longer and then my hands would not tremble that much when I’m putting the stoppers back in place
@Tester suggested the “rope method”, and I tried it first, but somehow even with rope tightly compressed, the valves still traveled way too low. my hope was they would firmly stay in place and I would not need to compress spring too much, but no, it did not work this way
next, I tried the method suggested by the Nissan shop manual: simply get the piston to the top and work directly against the piston: it was literally the same drop in valves, maybe just a tad bit more, so I’m not even sure I want to go with a rope anymore: both methods do not hold valves as the compressed air would
I’m too afraid to go with a compressed air, as I have no stopper for the crankshaft, so it may go wrong