2006 impala no brakes

So I was working uber and I was stopping at a stop sign all of the sudden I have no brakes just barley was able to stop. Upon looking at my driver side brake line my caliper line was loose I tightened and tried to bleed the brakes on that caliper and it won’t bleed now but also before this happened I hear a hissing sound from my brake ONLY when car is running and I realized it goes away if I remove brake booster vacuum line that goes to the engine. I checked the diaphragm and there is no cracks in the seal either.

Things I’ve done
Changed master cylinder from used car
Swapped diaphragm anyway
Checked for leaks on brake lines and swapped 2 lines to the ABS unit which also ABS unit never worked.

Could it be a completely failed brake booster? Or do I need a new ABS unit? Or you guys think its the vacuum hose? I’m pretty sure the vacuum hose no leaks I checked by holding one end and blowing in the other and I checked the check valve and its working properly .

You work for Uber and you are trying to fix your own brakes with help from a Forum. If you have an accident with a passenger and that is found out you will be destroyed financially.

Put this in a shop and have it done properly.

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UberEats and im good I’m a mechanic I’ll figure it out I’m just seeing if Someone here could help me quicker identify the issue but I’m pretty sure its brake booster just tryna be sure before getting a new one. I’m broke.

A leaking brake booster won’t prevent you from bleeding the brakes. Is there no fluid or air coming out of the bleeder?

No there’s not but like I was manually bleeding it should I try bleeding it with a tool?

The proportioning/combination valve might be stuck, this was triggered while the line was leaking. This occurs to close off the leaking circuit.

With the bleeders closed, pump the brake pedal 10 times to build pressure in the system, you might notice a click, the combination valve centering, then bleed the brakes.

I don’t think an 06 Impala has a combo valve. The car has a diagonal split system and the ABS modulator for that function.

So I will say my car won’t brake at all at this point but all 3 other calipers are bled and the only caliper that isn’t bled is driver side but no brakes work at all.

Is it possible to not have brakes if abs module is broken?

Yes., but it would have to several things screwed up so I don’t think that is your problem.

Given the age of your car, I’d guess the brake hose is bad for the caliper that won’t bleed. That part need to be brand new, not used.

Fix that first, then concentrate on the booster. You say you replaced the diaphram? In the booster? Yeah, no, replace the entire unit. Again, new part.

Try it with a pressure bleeder.

You opened the brake system when you swapped the master cylinder.

Here’s the brake bleeding procedure when that’s done.

SPECIAL PROCEDURES

With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you
disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level.
    With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
    Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
    Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
    Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
    Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
    Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
    Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
    With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps.
    After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
    Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
    disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
    If brake pedal height is not sufficient or it is suspected that air is trapped in the system, Using a scan tool, perform the antilock brake system automated bleeding procedure to remove any air that may have been trapped in the BPMV.
    With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
    Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
    Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
    Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
    Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
    Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
    Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
    With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps.
    After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
    Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
    disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
    If brake pedal height is not sufficient or it is suspected that air is trapped in the system, Using a scan tool, perform the antilock brake system automated bleeding procedure to remove any air that may have been trapped in the BPMV.
Manual bleeding: Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure maintain steady pressure.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 6-8 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
Repeat steps 4 - 9 for each caliper in sequence.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again.
If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
Inspect the brake system for external leaks.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you
Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level.
With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 18-22 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps.
After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Pressure Bleeding : Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid.
Install the bleeder cap to the brake master cylinder reservoir.
Check the brake fluid level in the J 29532 , or equivalent.
Connect the J 29532 , or equivalent, to the master cylinder bleeder cap on fluid reservoir.
Charge the J 29532 , or equivalent, air tank to 175-205 kPa (25-30 psi).
Open the J 29532 , or equivalent, fluid tank valve to allow pressurized brake fluid to enter the brake system.
Wait approximately 30 seconds, then inspect the entire hydraulic brake system in order to ensure that there are no existing external brake fluid leaks. Any brake fluid leaks identified require repair prior to completing this procedure.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit. Allow fluid to flow until air bubbles stop flowing from the bleeder, then tighten the bleeder valve.
Repeat steps 34 -36 for each caliper in sequence.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Close the J 29532 , or equivalent, fluid tank then disconnect the J 29532 , or equivalent, from the bleeder cap valve, then disconnect the J 29532 , or equivalent, from the J 35589-A .
Remove the bleeder cap from the brake master cylinder reservoir.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the following steps:
Inspect the brake system for external leaks.
Perform the following steps to bleed the Antilock Brake System on vehicles without option JL4.
Connect a scan tool to the vehicle.
Start the engine and allow it to idle.
Depress the brake pedal firmly and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Using the scan tool, begin the automated bleed procedure.
Follow the instructions on the scan tool to complete the automated bleed procedure. Release the brake pedal between each test sequence.
Turn the ignition OFF and remove the scan tool from the vehicle.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Bleed the hydraulic brake system.
With the ignition OFF, apply the brakes 3–5 times, or until the brake pedal becomes firm, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the automated bleeding procedure.
If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the automated bleeding procedure inspect the brake system for external leaks.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF; check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, Do not allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
Drive the vehicle to exceed 8 mph/ 13 km to allow ABS initialization to occur. Observe brake pedal feel.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the automated bleeding procedure until a firm brake pedal is obtained.

I followed this tester and all the other calipers would bleed except the driver front caliper

So I uhh reset the caliper pistons and i pushed the brakes and brake fluid came out through the sides of the caliper pistons I think ima put a new brake line and caliper maybe that’ll fix the problem

Well not my calipers and brakes are bled and master cylinder is bled so that must mean either abs or brake booster . I hear a hissing sound when pumping my brakes near the vacuum line or like where the master cylinder is connected to the booster but there is no leaking from the cylinder to the booster so I’m assuming I need a whole new booster.

Did you check if the brake booster check valve is working?

image

Tester

I took it out and did the blow test and it seemed fine and I checked the rubber that seals it took the booster too and no cracks good shape.

Should I take a video?

Also id like to say I can push my brake pedal all the way to the floor when the engine is off but its much more firm but it will still goto the floor but when the engine is off halfway pushing to the floor makes a clunking feeling but keeps going.

I say No video . It appears that this repair is beyond your ability and you need this vehicle for work. Also a brake shop will have an invoice showing what was done . If you don’t solve this completely and you crash into someone while an Uber contractor you will be ruined financially for years.

So use your credit card , ask for relatives for a loan or what ever you need to do to make this a safe vehicle.

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