2006 honda civic LX sedan wire corrosion

I have some serious corrosion issues stemming from my positive battery terminal in my 2006 Honda Civic LX 4dr 1.8L. The corrosion was bad on the OEM connector even after repeated attempts to break it loose with the old coke trick (and before that, the baking soda trick) and picking at it with a screwdriver. In the end, I just cut off the connector totally with a set of cable cutters, and now I’m wondering if this was a bad decision.

Once I cut the connector, I took a look at the wires. Of the two wires that were hooked into the connector, the one that appears to be corroding is the one that goes toward the alternator (I think). The other, which goes to the fuse box, is OK.

My problem now is how to reconnect all this stuff. My first thought was to just buy a new crimping connector for each cable and then tie those into a new terminal connector. The Honda connectors are junk anyway. But I have so little wire available in the OEM setup that I don’t know if I can stretch it all the way to the battery. And if I have to cut off more to get rid of the remaining corrosion I will definitely not be able to make it work.

However, replacing the entire cable is difficult. This Honda has an integrated wiring harness. The positive battery cable is not available separately from that harness, which costs about $250.

A possible solution I came up with yesterday: I was thinking I’d just get a new piece of battery wire and run it straight from the alternator output lug to the positive battery terminal. However, what should I do about the wires I cut from the connector. Can I attach a crimp-style connector to the fuse box wire and just cap off the other and forget about it? Or do I need to splice a piece of wire to that one and reconnect it as well?

I’d replace the connector and wire it the way they wired it. The separate wires are like that so that high currents the starter requires go through it, current always choosing the way of least resistance.
As far as splicing a new battery connector in, are the cables long enough to reach it?

Next time get a battery terminal puller. Now, while it’s $$$, I’d replace the whole thing using the factory cable. Splicing the high current cables is not easy to do correctly. Or have it towed to an auto electric shop and have them do it.

Without seeing the damage it’s near impossible for me to tell you how to go about reparing it. However, you can go to a home improvement store and buy copper wire lugs that will allow you to splice heavy cables or wiring together.
Personally, I would not rely on a crimp connection only and feel that any connection should be soldered also.

I will post a photo a little later tonight. You can then see what I am working with at this point.

When a battery cable is damaged or cut too short I prefer O.E. manufacture cables. In cases like yours when a new wiring harness is impractical due to cost I would use a splice type aftermarket cable.

Note; I would remove the yellow and red spice connectors and solder the connections if the smaller wires were needed. Those crimp connector loosen over time.