06 RT 5.7…Started with the usual stalling NO CODES …Then my tranny fluid everywhere…Brought to chrysler dealership…$1600 later ran okay for a couple months,Stalling problem again,And again and again…New transmission $3000…Didnt drive it 45 miles and stalling again and again…Kept driving it then the stalling became everytime i drove it…10-15 times every 10 min,AGAIN ANOTHER TRANSMISSION + PCM+TCM…So another $3800 later it drove fine…Didnt make it 45 miles and started again…Frying my new tcm thankfully the 2nd transmission wanst ruined spent another $350 getting the aftermarket alarm system taken out ran about 3 hours then boom stalls again and again…My piece of shit 5.7 RT is still in the shop after all this bullshit and is still having the same problem…This is in showroom condition and has won many car shows…Its embarrassing and they still cant figure out wtf the prob is…Now they want to go through the ENTIRE WIRING HARNESS to see if theres a short…HELP ME PLEASE!!! ive spent more in repair than i paid for it now !! ill never BUY A DODGE AGAIN…This is pathetic to see everyone have the same freakin prob and noone can figure it out or fix it…Ive almost gotten killed 4 times due to the stalling
Lots of info there, but not enough about the exact circumstances of the stalls.
Please stop swearing, this is a family site.
Lemme try a wild donkey guess. Do you left foot brake? Do you drag your right foot along the brake as you apply the throttle? If you don’t know, have someone watch your feet when you drive. Also, check to make sure your brake light goes off when you release the pedal and doesn’t “jiggle” back on when you aren’t braking. If you hit the gas when the brake is still applied, the engine will lose all power and drop to idle. It is a “safety” thing so you can’t step on both pedals at the same time.
I will say, however, this is not unique. Lots of posts for FCA cars with problems, Dodge, Jeep, Ram, that the dealer cannot fix. I’d suggest finding a better dealer.