2006 Chevy Trailblazer liftgate wiring

chevrolet
trailblazer

#1

I had problems with my liftgate/keyless entry/interior lights etc. I have narrowed it down to a wiring problem from the liftgate to the body.
I get the keyless and liftgate to work intermittently manipulating the wires. (Specifically the larger orange wire and small blue wire.) I believe there must be a short inside the insulation over the wire.
I am wondering if I can change out the ammeter connector; strip some of the coating off the the wire behind where I believe the break is and reattach it. I cannot see how the wire is attached inside the ammeter connector. Is it soldered? Or is it just crimped? OR can I bypass the entire ammeter connector on either side and just wire the two sides together?
Please help! I am a single mother who cannot afford to take this in for repair! I appreciate your time.


#2

I’m not certain what you mean by an “ammeter connector”. My wife’s brother tried to install new struts on the lift gate of a Chevrolet Blazer that he owned and managed to damage the wires between the liftgate and the body. I installed the new struts and cut out the bad section of the wire, soldered in a new length of wire and used heat shrinking tape over the solder joints. It worked.


#3

Unless you can see an obvious problem a TVM is your friend. Manipulating wires indicates the source of the problem. It is a broken wire or a bad connector. A broken wire can be repaired with an inexpensive butt connector or 2, and a piece of wire if needed. You can buy an inexpensive tool to remake connections in the plug if needed.


#4

Searching online to find a new part, the piece I need is labeled “ammeter connector”. It is a connector that joins the two “halves”, like a connection similar to a wiring harness. Thank you for your suggestions!! :slight_smile:
Anything is worth a try!


#5

I think your “ammeter connector” is just a molded plug. If you have a problem with the actual plug connectors, then you’ll end up replacing the harness. If it’s a wire problem (as suggested), then you’ll fare better rebuilding the harness, cutting out the bad parts, and using either Triedaq’s or Waterboy’s suggestion. I would go with Triedaq’s, modifed some using liquid electrical tape and heat shrink. I’m also accustomed to working on boats, though, where water intrusion is common.


#6

You should not create separate posts for the same problem. Take the time to find the first one and ADD to it. It keeps the flow intact so people who want to contribute understand all that has been discussed.

Here is a diagram of the wiring in question:

The LT BLU wire is the serial data from the BCM to the LGM. The ORG wire is battery voltage. Either one could be responsible for the failure you’re seeing.

The easiest way to find a broken wire is to try pulling on it. Support one end using a smooth jawed pliers so as not to damage the insulation and avoid applying strain to the rest of the wire. Then pull on the other end. If the wire is broken internally, the PVC jacket will stretch. It will be obvious compared to the other wires that are not broken. The break will likely be at the point of most flex in the cabling.

Once you have identified the damaged wire, cut it at the break, strip back the ends and splice in a section of the same wire gauge. If you’re on a very tight budget, this can be done using very rudimentary tools and parts. A nail clipper could be used to strip back the insulation. Wire nuts could be used to splice in the section after twisting the wires together. Then insert a small amount of silicone RTV into the nut before twisting it over the wires. Then carefully fold the wires back into the loom and tape shut. There are better ways to do this but they require some tools you probably don’t have and will never use again.


#7

Thank you for the wiring post. My liftgate was damaged in an accident. The key fob was working with my damaged liftgate. I replaced the liftgate with one from the salvage yard, moved my liftgate control module and the wiring harness from my damaged liftgate to the salvaged liftgate.

My vehicle is a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer. I have three orange wires. I have power on the largest orange wire to the liftgate control module( position C) and the medium orange wire to the rear wiper module( position B). The third and smallest orange wire is in position A. It does not work. I cannot seem to figure out why?

Does circuit 2740 run to its own fuse? I would think in the under the 2nd seat fuse block?

My fob does not work.


#8

Did you check the fuses in the rear fuse block? Under the driver’s side rear seat is a fuse block. I think it is fuse #3 and Fuse #23 that powers the end gate module. They will be labeled with EGM #2 or EGM/DSM as in EndGate Module (EGM). Check any that have that designation. Unusual you have 3 ORG wires. If the fuses check out, you may want to try jumping between A and C in the connector to see if it now functions. The other prime suspect is a bad/missing ground. But the ORG wires should have battery voltage on them so start there.