Help…please. I’ve got a vibration problem! I had the tires road force balanced 2 times by 2 different tire shops. I finally replaced the tires and had them road force balanced and the problem persists. It starts mildly at 50 and grows in intensity max at 62 and stops at 70. I’ve also had the rear axles replaced. It’s been very frustrating and expensive. The websites I’ve visited indicate the Cadillac DTS has had issues, but road force balancing has been the only fix recommended. It only has 76,000 miles on it and I’m hoping to keep for a long time. Can you help me, please?
If it’s AWD, an idapentant shop can check driveshaft carrier bearing, all axles, suspension parts like tie rods ball joints and control arms. The symptoms you described could be u-joints or damaged or out of balance driveshaft, if the carrier bearing is good.
Thanks for the quick response! It’s rear wheel drive and I had the alignment done when I had the new tires put on. I was told the front end was tight. One other thing, I had the rack replaced due to a leak. The vibration is in the wheel and the seat. Sorry I didn’t mention that in my post.
Bruce, your car is Front Wheel Drive. You did not have the rear axles replaced because there aren’t any. Rear bearings maybe. Lift the hood, notice that the engine runs cross-ways not fore and aft. Front wheel drive.
I’d suggest that the rear engine mount may have failed. It is fluid-filled and the fluid tends to leak out when old and it sets up the vibration you describe.
A vibration in the seat indicates drivetrain like carrier bearing u-joints, driveshaft, differential or rear suspension. That’s where I would start looking. Steering wheel vibration indicates front suspension.
You’re correct. I had the front axles replaced. I guess I don’t look under the hood very often. Sorry about that! Thanks for the response. I’ll have it checked out and let you know the outcome. Thanks again
Thank you for the response. I’m going to bring it in to my mechanic tomorrow to have all of the suggestions checked out. Thanks again
I had the front, rear, and dog bone mounts replaced and the vibration has improved, however it still falls between 60MPH and 70MPH peeking at 65MPH. So far I’ve changed out the front axles, road force balanced the old and new tires, and had a front end alignment done. This is drive me crazy and costing many bucks…any other suggestions, please
I had the front, rear, and dog bone mounts replaced and the vibration has improved, however it still falls between 60MPH and 70MPH peeking at 65MPH. So far I’ve changed out the front axles, road force balanced the old and new tires, and had a front end alignment done. This is drive me crazy and costing many bucks…any other suggestions, please
OK, to repeat…
The dog-bone mounts are not the fluid filled mounts nor are they the rear engine mount.
I did have the front and rear motor mounts replaced. The old one fell apart when removed. So, what else can cause this vibration. I start feeling it in my feet then in the steering wheel.
I think you have done what can be done. If you want to keep it, you need to learn to live with the vibration. Sorry.
Ask your shop to check each of the tires for out of round and side to side wobble.
This is something a diy’er inclined person can do themselves. Jack up the car so you can rotate the tire by hand. Figure out a way to position the point of a pencil very close but not quite touching the tread, then hand rotate the tire. If the distance between the pencil and the tread noticeably changes as you rotate the tire, it means the tire is out of round. Likewise position the pencil on the side of the tire. If that distance changes it means there’s a side to side wobble. If you got either of those problems, could be caused by the tire, wheel, or the hub.