Yes you would have to wait until the next no start situation.
A bad fuel pump could be intermittent. Or intermittent could mean a problem in the wiring to the pump, or the neutral safety switch having dirty contacts.
Just to list a few.
Yosemite
I agree, “it also makes no sound when you turn the key” indicates an electrical problem, probably the ignition switch. A bad fuel pump, you could hear the starter grind.
How would a bad fuel pump prevent the starter from operating?
Tester
I have the same thought as @Tester. I thought just the starter wasn’t working when the trouble happened. Is the engine cranking but just not firing up when the problem arises?
“I have a new starter and battery. When I turn the key everything in the car comes on except for the car (it also makes no sound when you turn the key)”
OP also said he bridged the starter contacts, and the engine cranks over
Clearly the starter and battery are not the problem
Clearly the fuel pump is not the problem, because a bad pump won’t prevent the engine from cranking over
I’ve seen plenty of bad ignition switches that let the lights and cluster come on, but won’t allow the engine to crank over. To be more precise, I’ve seen bad ignition switches that didn’t fail 100%, some part of them still worked, but the engine wouldn’t crank over.
But it comes down to this . . . who cares if the ignition switch has failed 75% or 100% . . . it’s bad
Repeating re ignition switch: When you find a problem, fix it first before attempting to solve other problems. Simple rule of troubleshooting.
If the fuses in the dash panel are getting power when the ignition switch is ON then the trouble is beyond the ignition switch and the safety switch or the wiring to it is the most likely suspect. That is the way I see it at least.
I’ve noticed that the ignition switch where they key goes gets hot. If that’s not supposed to happen, I think we’ve found the problem.
Yes indeedy… They do go bad trust me. The internal contacts degrade over time and surely do have issues. Ive replaced countless ignition switches.
Many times the switch is completely separate from the lock tumbler portion…this allows you to unbolt the electrical contact side of the assembly and replace it. Works great.
Blackbird
Ignition switches can heat up a little without being faulty. Your problem could be the ignition switch, but I wouldn’t replace it before doing a proper diagnosis. That means to measure the voltages at the starter motor during attempted cranking. There’s usually two electrical terminals there, one for a thin wire, the other for a thick wire. Ask your shop to measure those two voltages during attempted cranking, measuring between the terminal and the starter case. Both should measure above 10.5 volts.
I am also having a problem with my 2005 Nissan Maxima starting after I completed a tune up of changing the spark plus, ignition coils and oil change. Upon completion the changes the car started but after driving 10 miles it cut off. White smoke was coming from the under the hood on passenger side. Now car won’t start. Smelt like something electrical burning. Look under for burnt wires and found out #1 ignition coils was burnt. I replaced it but car still won’t start. Please help me…
If it cranks ok, but doesn’t start, ask your shop to check for visible spark at all four spark plugs during cranking. If you got a good spark, probably a fuel problem. If no spark, find out why. Given this started happening soon after the prior work, I expect you have some sort of ignition system problem going on, likely due to problematic wiring. Since you believe coil no. 1 was burned out, that could have been due to a short and may have damaged the ignition module.
Hey just wondering if you ever figured out the problem with the Nissan mine is doing the same thing
You’ll get more replies here @Cody_Barthalow1 if you post your car’s problem as a new topic. Click on maintenance/repairs above left, then new topic above right.