2004 chrysler concorde 3.5L trouble code p 0016

P0016 Crank/Camshaft Mis-align/sync.
I have replaced both camshaft and crankshaft pos. Senors. This is the only code left car still acts out of time. can someone tell me where the timing belt /Camshaft Drive Belt is on this car and how hard of a repair I’m looking at. Also does any one know if this is a interference engine,or not if so is it worth trying or just take it strait to the shop.

I don’t have a lot of experiance working on modern engines but I can rebuild a chevy 350 small block if that helps with weather to atempt self repairs.i’ll buy a service manual if I end up doing the work.

Thank you for any help you can offer.

When was the last timing belt replacement? Also and I know you may not know…did they replace ALL of the idler pulleys and tensioners when the last belt was done? They need to be done on every belt change. I am thinking that your T-belt is stretched, degraded, or otherwise on its way out…AND that you may be one or more tooth off on one of your Cams. This can happen when the T-belt gets old…looses some teeth, stretches beyond the capability of the auto tensioner to compensate for etc… Basically outside of a failing Cam sensor its the T-belt jumping… You need to check into the T-belt IMMEDIATELY…

If you know anything about engines…Line up your TDC mark on the main crank pulley and make sure or check to see if both of your Cams are pointing EXACTLY where they are supposed to be…if they arent…That needs to be remedied ASAP. You should be able to do this relatively easily…I believe you have two small plastic covers on this engine…so that you can see your cam pulleys. Once you are at TDC on the crank…the rest is easy when you can see your cam pulleys…You need to do this quick check…it will explain A LOT to you…or me… Let me know what you get. Any deviation is cause for alarm and an immediate STOPPAGE of driving…T-belt time if you dont see everybody lined up properly. If you do see them lined up properly then it may be due to a faulty/dirty cam sensor. If it is T-belt time…let me know and I will guide you to where to buy the proper kit for that engine…it will include ALL you need for a PROPER T-belt replacement…If you can rebuild a Chevy 350 then I dont think a T-belt job it outside your scope.

Let us know Sir.

Timing belt never replaced as car only has 72.5k miles and I didn’t think this one should have been due til 100k I’ll check on rest when daylight graces me again in about 12 hours. thank you for all the advice already offered and the car is undriveable at this time came out of store tried to start heard that out of time sound and pulled codes saw they where timing related and had a friend trailer it home for me.

It’s not the mechanical parts I worry about messing up that I’m comfortable with and from everything you’ve said that’s all this seems to be I just get intimadated by all of the electronics on modern motors.i wouldn’t have this one but I inherited it just over a year ago.give me a old cheyenne and I’m happy as can be.

I didn’t get much done today a few things came up. I did get most every thing removed so I can get to the timing covers thinking I may go ahead and remove the fans as well for the extra room to work.I’ll update tomorrow hopefully I get more time to work then.

It would help you out to have a basic repair manual. Even a Haynes or Chilton’s from an auto parts store would help although those do tend to be full of problems. You should drop by Autozone’s website - if you register an email address & plug in the car’s info they have free online repair info. It is bare bones but gives the step by step for many major jobs.

You can use the Gates website to find out whether its an interference engine or not.

It is a interference engine and as for a guide I’m using this for right now. http://www.moparmagazine.com/2010/jul-aug/timing_belt_replacement
It’s looking like I’ve jumped time at this point. I have to get a puller tomorrow to finish. However I have seen I few slivers of belt in the housing already. The belt is still on but I’m getting that feeling that I’m in for a major repair at this point. Does anyone know How far out of time it can go before valve damage occurs?

Okay it’s confirmed I need to replace the timing belt at least.

Since you’re this far in slap the new belt on and then just check the compression. If that’s good then you should be good to go.

So who can point me to a good timing belt kit? I’m in here so it’s getting done right the first time.

You can’t go wrong with the Gates company. They are aftermarket timing components.

Dayco is also trusted.

And then there’s always just OEM. I’d price it - its not always all that much more expensive than anything else.

I can locate the kit for you if you wish…EBay usually has many of them listed… YOu will want to go with a moderately priced kit…some are silly low priced…They are made of CHINESEUM…DONT BUY… Buy a kit in the middle price range. These kits most always have belts made by Continental/Dayco/Gates…they have all the idler pulleys and sometimes the tensioner and water pump if applicable… If the water pump is driven by the T-belt then you are replacing that also. These kits are avail locally but they usually cost 2-3X what it will on Ebay. I can give you the ebay item numbers of the kits that I like if you wish…I have never had a materials failure in the kits I have purchased. I only buy the better kits…and you can ID them by the pics and descriptions…I also know what parts are Chineseum and to STEER CLEAR of those. LEt me know if you want me to search for you. Cigroller is correct AS ALWAYS…Gates and Dayco are incomparable quality.

ALSO…Log onto AutoZOne.com…they have FREE ONLINE Repair manuals…almost always have the detailed scoop on the T-belt swap as well. Nice right? Saves space on your bookshelf I think…

 Which engine do you have....The 2.7L has a T-chain.....so I guess yours is the other.......what a 3.2?  or 3.5L I think?  Yeah 3.5L.

I went on Ebay and I believe I like Ebay item number 350470152196 it is made by Goodyear. There are quite a few others, but if you look at that item number you will get the idea.

 I must admit that this is the first time that I am getting a bit Pissed off at these sellers not DETAILING PRECISELY what is in the kit.  You can always ask them a question, but I believe that item number has all you need.....  EXCEPT a NEW FRONT MAIN SEAL......THIS IS ESSENTIAL..... they are available to you locally, I am sure.  The front main seal obviously goes IN FRONT of the engine...lol..... it is an oil seal located behind the harmonic balancer.

Let me know if you want to check out more kits…but the ones in the price range I listed seem to be right on target.