Radiator blew a crack in the top. I replaced the radiator, replaced the thermostat.
Put it all back together and still overheats. I removed and reinstalled the thermostat on the off chance I didn’t put the bleeder at the top. Put all back together with same result.
Well, if the problem is a failing head gasket, technically, the head warps, as MLS gaskets don’t crush down like composite gaskets do. The good news is that this engine uses a timing belt, so it’s much easier to take apart than a modern engine with multiple timing chains, VVT, etc. Might as well fix this truck, as a new(er) model will cost way more, and be way less reliable long-term.
There was no evidence of leaks prior to it happening. Temp gauge went nuts while driving home. Steam came out from under hood. Pulled off road and found crack.
After replacing radiator and thermostat, engine would idle fine for 10 minutes or so. When I try to go around block, gauge spikes again.
Top radiator hose is hot as hell. Bottom hose, not so much.
I think your fan clutch has failed. The fan clutch should engage when the engine gets hot. It makes the noise from the fan much louder when it does engage. You can determine this better by comparing the cold noise with the hot by opening the hood and listening.
If you have electric fans check to see if they come on when hot.
That sounds like an air pocket to me… as long as the heat was working before hand…
If it is full of coolant, you can normally turn the heater on full blast and it will help cool the engine temp down a little, however with a air pocket, that doesn’t always work…
What rpm are you running the engine at while trying to bleed the cooling system?? If idle, then run it up to about 1800-2000 rpms and bleed it again…