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2003 Ford Taurus Ford Securilock Problem

2003 Ford Taurus, 3.0 OHV V6, 29350 miles. Oil and coolant levels normal.

The Taurus is at my Dad’s house in Philadelphia, it has been sitting for four or five months while I was trying to get a clear title for it (long story). I’m in South Jersey. It was running when it was parked.

Sunday night I went up to put the plates on it and bring it home. The battery was completely dead and there were cracks in the battery case where I pulled the positive cable off to clean it. It was too late to get another battery.

I came up Tuesday to install a new battery. All the lights came on, the radio worked, but the engine would not turn over (starter disabled). It appears the Securilock system has disabled the car. The Theft Indicator light on the dash was flashing rapidly, from the Owner’s Manual,

“If a problem occurs with the SecuriLock system, the indicator will flash rapidly or glow steadily when the ignition is in the ON position. If this occurs, the vehicle should be taken to an authorized dealer for service.”

At this point I’m going to have to arrange to have the Taurus towed to the local Ford dealer and pay dearly.

Once I got home I did a quick search and found this on

“To reset a securilock system in a ford you enter your vehicle with your start key and remote and introduce your key into the ignition. Try the ignition key from ‘Off’ to ‘Run’ eight times in the first 10 seconds. Wait for the locks to click after the eighth cycle and press and hold any button on your remote. Hold the button for up to 30 seconds until the locks automatically click again. Ford Securilock Problems are theft damage and signal interference.”

Does anybody know if sitting with a completely dead battery would cause the Securilock system to need reseeting? Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Ed B.

Read this and you decide.


I disagree with the person who flagged @Tester as off-topic. The article is as accurate for a disconnected battery as for a dead as a door nail battery. Modern modules do not like an interruption in power, and tend to behave badly.

I also disagree with the moron (I know who he is) who flagged @Tester. He flagged me recently and he tried to explain it away as a mistake. A dead battery will play havoc with most security systems.

Sorry Tester, I flagged you be mistake. I’ll give the article a good look, and thanks.


@edb1961, you can un-flag him. Just click it again.

With some vehicles that I see towed in the vehicles security system won’t allow the engine to start. If the vehicle was locked by the customer when the battery had power but was dead when returned, the door is then unlocked manually with a key. Power is then restored with the door open but the security system never recognized an “authorized entry”. Factory systems usually don’t sound the alarm when power is restored, just interfere with starting.

Perhaps too simple for this vehicle but closing the vehicle, locking and unlocking the doors normally is all that is needed on other makes.

So @Nevada_545 have you ever tried locking the doors resetting ecm then reconnecting battery and unlocking with a fob if your suggestion does not work?

In the last twenty years I haven’t found the need to reset an ECM, the car always starts after disarming the security system.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a couple of things I want to try before it gets towed to the dealer. It might be a few days before I get back up to Philly. I’ll post back with the results.

Ed B.

Do you have two ignition keys? If so try this.

Insert the first key and turn the ignition switch to run for three seconds. Turn the ignition switch off. Insert the second key and turn the ignition switch to run for three seconds. Turn the ignition switch off. Now see if the engine starts.



Unfortunately I only have one key, but thank you for the suggestion.

Ed B.

@edb1961, I highly suggest you get a second key coded for the security system AFTER you get the existing key sync’ed and put in a safe location. I cannot tell you the number of times I’ve had to rescue someone and give them the bad news when their one and only coded key gets lost or breaks. Without at least one coded key, usually a special security module is required to put the security system in learn mode to sync up a replacement.

Some locksmiths have the equipment to program a new key, provided you have one working key. It will usually be cheaper than the dealership too.

Update - I went up to Philly last week to have another go. I initiated the diagnostics mode which came back with: “1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master”

I had a locksmith come out yesterday to do the following:
Service call: 15
Program old key: 50
Cut and program new key: 160
With tax and bad addition by the locksmith: $243

Not having it towed to the dealer: priceless

Ford willing, I will go up today and drive it back. The first thing I will do is have a third key cut and programmed.

I picked it up and drove it back to the house successfully. The wife (who was following) said I looked like a drunk because the Taurus tended to wander in the lane. The tires are at the correct pressure so I’m going to have to get the front end checked.

Ed B.

As long as you have 2 keys you should be able to program it yourself. Save more $. Thanks for the update. Our 03 ford had a limit of 8 keys for some reason.

i drove to walmart this morning,when i came back i remove my negative terminal of my battery and i place it back…i start the vehicle only to beep alarm and shout…the alarm wont stop…i pressed the remote and it stop after a while but the engine wont start…pls i need help pls

pls its a 2002 ford taurus

I suggest you start a new thread, this thread is 3 years old. Include the make, model, year, mileage, age of the battery, and why you disconnected the negative terminal.


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I have a 2007 Taurus (Same) that I picked up as an impound car with a dead battery, sitting for months, and it did not have an issue with that. Is the key in good shape?