How to take a broken spark plug out on the left side in the back of the engine.
Normally I just see the porcelain broken off by DIYers, which still leaves the Hex metal part for a socket to grab…
Can you take a picture of what is left so we will have an idea of what you are talking about…
Good possibility the head will have to come off and maybe even go to a machine shop for repair damage… Again, not there looking to see what you are dealing with…
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OP, is there a reason you can’t just install a socket and ratchet on the broken spark plug and remove it, twist it out? Is there something in the way? On some v-configured lateral-oriented engines the intake manifold has to be removed to replace the spark plugs, but spark plug removal and replacement seems to take about 2 hours for this car’s 3.8L engine, so doubting the intake manifold has to be removed. But in this particular case, and space is now too tight to get it out otherwise, removing whatever is in the way, be it the intake manifold, heat shields, or whatever, doing the removal job that way may be the best path.
If I understand OP post correctly, the plug is very hard to get to being against the firewall, unlike a lot of manufactures, you can not get to the back of the engine from under the vehicle on the firewall side as the transaxle and cradle is in the way and there is not a lot of room from the top either… The GM 3.8L is an OHV engine meaning the spark plugs are down low on the side of the heads (in the exhaust area) just like your regular 70’s V8… So George, imagine your old 302 from your truck being shoved down sideways in your Corolla and trying to get to the plugs against the firewall from up top… I hope that helps you visualize your question is there something in the way… lol
That makes sense, definitely seems like that arrangement would create a big access problem up against the firewall. Plug no. 8 on my truck is a little tricky, get this, I have to move the gearshift lever from “P” to “1” for the needed access, oh the humanity!!! … lol …
I’ve been there but I’m super careful that the socket is square on the plug. Use a flex ratchet and short extension and kinda lay on the engine and do it by feel. My hands aren’t as strong as they used to be and had more trouble seating the plug wire.
I have that same problem. I rub a very thin layer of silicone grease on the porcelain part of the plug first.
Yeah me too but it was a lot easier 20 years ago.
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I think if you remove torque arms you can tilt motor forward a bit to help rear bank access? Been awhile
Yeah unbolting the old dog bone mounts and “roll the engine forward” helps out a lot but I think OP has the ones that are spread out enough that it doesn’t use the dog done (torque) mounts… But if it happens to have them it will be a huge help…
True. I’ve seen pics showing dog bones and not
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