Like it or not, I don’t think any of the mechanics who’ve worked on your car really know what they’re doing
Just because you are in the process of opening your own business, does not guarantee competence or common sense
This problem should have been diagnosed and repaired long ago, in my opinion
My best guess would be to work from battery to plugs, start with checking battery for charge, then cable, the main fuse, other fuses . . . and so on. Just a guess though. Rocketman
Well, then I am screwed, because it has been to all of the “reputable” shops in town & none of them can find the problem & I can’t put it on the highway to take it to another town or even the dealership.
I appreciate everyone’s assistance. Thank you.
Sometimes – rarely, but sometimes --whatever’s causing the problem the vehicle is having just can’t be figured out. At least not economically. Usually those cars are sent to the recycler. But it is not a total loss. They are disassembled and sold for their parts. So there is some upside even in this case. Parts for those who need them.
Connector could be bad.
I am confused by some of the OP statements. In some posts the OP states that the shop(s) have determined the cylinder is combusting. This means the ignition is working and fuel is getting to the cylinder yet there is a misfire. In other posts it seems the ignition is not working though voltage is getting to the coil. Perhaps the ground connection for that coil position may have a problem if that is the case (black wire of coil). At this point I think it would be good to look at the ignition wires on a scope to see how they look and compare to each other. If they look close to each other then something else is causing the misfire trouble, not the ignition system.
Cougar, look at this previous post by the OP:
the combustion is the pressure from the fuel injectors & the compression is from the ignition coil?
He/she is totally confused and needs a primer on IC engines.
A missfire on cylinder 6 would mean that is NOT combusting at all. Firing and combusting mean the same thing. That is why everyone from the first was saying you are giving us conflicting information.
@“oldtimer 11” thank you for that clarification. Since that is the case, I do not know why the mechanics have told me that it is combusting. I was simply relaying the information that was stated to me–I was told it had combustion–so I am sorry for the confusion.
We got it to start, however it is still idling somewhat rough. But the SES is no longer on, so I do not know if cylinder 6 is still misfiring or if we remedied that problem.
Now there is the issue of a small amount of smoke leaking into the area where the air filter goes, as well as a whistling sound (indicative of a vacuum leak–if my readings are correct). Thinking it may have to have a smoke test to find the leak. & no clue what to do about the smoke.
kmull77- believe it or not I would love to help you out. You seemed to be a bit stubborn in the beginning but seem to have come around.
We got it to start, however it is still idling somewhat rough. But the SES is no longer on, so I do not know if cylinder 6 is still misfiring or if we remedied that problem.
Misfires are almost always detected by the engine management computer.
The lack of a code (and subsequent light) is not definitive but probable that the misfire is not happening right now.
Now there is the issue of a small amount of smoke leaking into the area where the air filter goes, as well as a whistling sound (indicative of a vacuum leak--if my readings are correct). Thinking it may have to have a smoke test to find the leak. & no clue what to do about the smoke.
OK, this is new, right? First, a smoke test is typically done on evaporative emissions systems, not on engine intake issues. There is a simpler DIY method for those, depending on where the leak is occurring (example, an external leak versus one that is completely internal). Spraying carb cleaner around suspect areas, the idle will smooth out of there is a leak in that area. Be careful, it’s combustible so you don’t want to go nuts.
But first explain a bit more about smoke leaking into the area where the air cleaner goes. What is the source of the smoke? Where EXACTLY is the smoke going in? Pictures would be marvelous…
yes the smoking is new. I am not sure where the actual smoke is coming from but have seen it near the plugs. There looks to be oil in the intake, leading over to the air filter air.
I am leery of spraying anything combustible near the engine. With the luck I am having I would catch it on fire with the tiniest amount.
I wonder if you have a cracked cylinder head. The starter motor can’t crank the engine fast enough to show a compression loss. I had a similar problem with a 1990 Ford Aerostar. At first, I could only feel the miss under hard acceleration. Ultimately it missed on that cylinder all the time. When checking compression, the engine is off and you don’t have the heat of combustion. When the engine is running, the heat of combustion opens up the crack. The solution is to pull the cylinder head and check.
How do I do that?
Twin Turbo
I use my evap/smoke machine all the time to search for intake, exhaust and evap leaks
Works great in all 3 instances, and is a great time saver. eliminates guesswork
Sure, there are cheaper ways, but I own the tool, so why not use it
OP, it takes an experienced mechanic with the proper equipment to remove the cylinder head. It’s not typically done by driveway diy’ers. There are tests the mechanic would usually do first, before taking on that job. Comrpression, cylinder leak down, coolant pressure tests, etc.
Thanks db4690, I did not know it was quite so versatile. Did you have to fabricate your own custom interfaces to allow it to be used on those systems?
Ok, so out of curiosity I went outside & started my car. It will start (no more SES–assuming that means that the misfiring on cylinder 6 is solved), however it will only start with the gas pedal pushed & if I let up off of it, the car dies. it is rumbly feeling & has a high pitched whistle to it. It will only stay on for maybe a minute then chugs out & dies–no matter if the gas is pressed or not. The fuel pump is 2 months old & is electric so it shouldn’t need the gas pressed to start… I am about ready to call it quits…
Thank you to everyone who attempted to help me find the issue!
Sounds like your engine is running on 5 cylinders. find the source of the whistle, there may be a large vacuum leak.
High pitched whistle would make me look at vacuum lines, Brake booster is a common one for failure if applicable. Hopefully you can have the car running to pinpoint the whistle. Step 1 now!
I am thinking it is a large vacuum leak, because up until Sunday when my BIL repaired a connector to cylinder 6, it was misfiring on number 6 & the SES light was on. The light is no longer on & the idle is different, as well as it now has the high pitched whistle–that had started the last time we started it before we fixed the connector. If I could get it to stay running long enough to drive it 3 miles down the road, I could take it a shop. But that isn’t happening right now.