That might be part of the alarm system. Thieves sometimes use a hammer & punch to knock the guts out of the door locks and/or ignition switch and maybe that device senses the shock from the hammer hitting the punch. There used to be a pancake restaurant in my area where a lot of car break-ins occurred for some reason, and I’d often find the punched out locks in the parking lot on my walk-a-bouts.
I tried using the blue button on the dash and nothing happened. I tapped it, held it down, but it didn’t move or give any indication it was changing anything. I opened the dash and got a good look at the alarm system. I found the main fuse and yanked it out. The car still works, but the alarm and automatic locks are disabled. I translated the words Spear 3000/4000 Gold Sinew Systems, but I haven’t been able to find this model on the internet yet. Newer versions of the Sinew alarms have a valet button on the computer itself. I’m going to go back in tomorrow and flip it over to see if it’s hiding underneath.
You need to have the key in the ON position for the valet mode button to function
When I opened the door with the remote lock fuse pulled I heard a sound come from under the hood that sounded like a muffled version of the alarm and didn’t turn off until I closed the door and put the car in Drive. I turned the car off, put the fuse back in, put the key in On, and tried the valet button on the dash again. I took it out for a drive with the fuse back in and the locks kept malfunctioning. I went back and tried a couple more times today. Is that little blue button supposed to move or flash? I didn’t see any indication I was accomplishing anything; however, I unlocked and opened the door several times and couldn’t invoke the alarm. The locks are still going on and off while I drive.
Yipes… I haven’t actually heard of the alarm mfg that is written on your box in the picture… Then again I am no longer a professional system installer either so… I could easily be out of the loop on this mfg.
I can tell you that a less than professional installed your system however, that is easy for me to spot.
You really do need the assistance of a proper alarm shop. There are simply too many variables to cover here and via this format of me trying to help via the web… Onsite? Its a different story, I could figure it out…and that is what a shop will do for you… Be prepared for them to tell you that they want to completely remove the system and install a new unit. Or you can hire them to remove it entirely and only remove it.
Removing the system is not difficult… depending upon who installed it and what they used…if they used vampire connectors its a total mess as they have a tendency to cut wires over time. Your starter wire is also cut in two during install…so that needs to be mended. Its not too difficult, but granted I have installed over 1000 systems in vehicles all over this area ( I actually counted my receipts one day)…not counting a couple hundred “side jobs” I have done during the 15 or so years I did this kind of work. So me saying its not too difficult is a matter of perspective I suppose.
Sorry I am not able to lay hands on this for you… Call an alarm shop to end this frustration.
Honda, I appreciate the effort you put into this with me. There are a couple all-purpose auto mechanics nearby, and I’ll ask around to see if there are any specialists in the area.
I am not an accessory specialist, I used to charge 1/2 hour labor to remove aftermarket alarms an restore the original wiring.
Vampire connector is new to me, but strange things happen. I tapped into a power supply for a 2 way radio for an external spotlight in the rear of a Sienna van. If the light was plugged into the power point I installed the van would not shut off!
Sorry bout that @Barkydog I have always called Scotch Locks “Vampire” Connectors I dont know why or where I picked that up. Maybe I got it from plumbing as I call those vampire taps also? They pierce or bite into a pipe to provide another connection or a tap into the pipe… I frown upon those things also…lol
I hate Scotch Locks they are a true menace out there… You can look them up to see the items Im talking about but in a nutshell they clip onto an existing wire…bite through the insulation and basically provide a tap into that run of wire. People seem to like to use them but I hate them… they are sketchy at best and not a long term or reliable means of tapping into another wire. Most often this clip on deal winds up corroding and or actually severing the Vitim wire you attach it to…its just dodgy and I have had to remove and remedy countless systems with these connection…
The method I have used with no problems whatsoever…even many many years later is where you pull back the insulation using an insulation spreader…then I insert a pick into the strands of that wire to separate them as equally as possible…and then insert the new wire and wrap the strands around the former …then tape her shut. Nothing beats soldering, but this method is extremely reliable I have found I still have connections going strong on wire looms I have made decades ago…
OK I’m finished babbling sorry…
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I unlock the driver’s door on my 2010 Kia Forte with the key nearly 100% of the time. I need the key for the ignition switch so using the fob to unlock the door makes little sense to me.
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Never heard the term “vampire connecter” before but the term fit’s & I like it I know what you are talking about & completely agree with you & like you I also like to split the wire to make the connection never had a problem that way.
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So the battery died again in the spring and I just left it in the garage and rode my bike the rest of the year. This weekend I had a friend jump me and I took it in. It turns out the valet button had a short and was draining the battery. The mechanic bypassed it and it seems to be working fine now. It cost me just $60 in labor. I’m selling the car this week and hopefully somebody else can get some use out of it.
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Thanks for getting back to us. If you sell it to a private buyer, you should tell them about the bypass. If you sell it to a dealer, don’t bother.
Bypassing a cheap aftermarket alarm returns things to normal, the next owner shouldn’t care if this alarm is missing.